Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Florence (Firenze), Italy’s Jeweled Necklace





Perseus with the head of Medusa, by Cellini (1554)


So, you’re on your way to Florence, Italy.   Good choice.  By the way, Italians call it Firenze (Fear-in-say).  How long have you got?  A year?  A month?  At least a week?  What, only a few hours?  Pity drips from my every pore.  To me, even more than Rome, Florence is the heart of Italy.

With only a few hours, better get started and I mean a year before you go.  If you don’t know what you’re looking at, you’re only a dull dog watching TV.  Read a couple of thousand books, become an authority on Michelangelo, Botticelli, Donatello, and dozens of other Renaissance artists.  Bone up on the Medicis, Machiavelli and other Italian political powers.

Think I’m joking?  There are some twenty major museums in Firenze.  That doesn’t count wandering the streets, and visiting the Ponte Vecchio, perhaps one of the top ten famous bridges of the world.  Bring credit cards, P.V.  is a throng of jewelry shops.  Oh, yeah, there’s the Plazzio Vecchio Musuem and tower.



Don’t feel like standing in line for tickets to the world famous Uffizi Gallery Museum?  Get your ticket online.  Of course, the Uffizi has some 45 corridors, so if you get there in the morning, be sure to switch the lights off when you leave.

We had only four hours?  Who’s the prankster?  You could spend four hours just waiting in line at the Uffizi.

So, what can you do to entertain yourself in the blink of an Italian eye?  I pondered that question.  Simple mind.  Simple answer.

Piazza dela Signoria, compliments of Wikipedia 

The Piazza dela Signoria is a good place to start.  Lots to see, including The David by Michelangelo, which is in front of the Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace).  The original is in the Galleria dell'Accademia.  Lots of other statues in the Piazza dela Signoria, in fact too many to list. And, that goes for the rest of Florence!


It was here that the Bonfire of the Vanities took place.  Nope, not talking about Tom Wolfe’s 1990 novel.  This real life bonfire was lit by a Dominican priest, Girolamo Savonarola, who wanted to rid society of every temptation to sin, including everything that had to do with vanity.  Books.  Cosmetics.  Mirrors.  Paintings. Etc-freaking-cetera.  In the end, Savonarola got what was coming to him.  Denounced by the Inquisition, he was burned at the stake. The place of his conflagration is marked in the piazza.

Which makes a good point. Without getting too political, time marches on and humans are humans.  Want to stop time, or stop humans from being human?  Good luck.  Been tried.  In my often-inebriated opinion, the good and the bad of humanity are with us to stay.  A corollary:  often, both good and bad are moving targets and truth goes along for the ride.  Name a topical triumph or defeat and you’ll easily find humans who long to reverse the decision.

I say, forget those things we cannot change and go have a pizza and a wine.  In Florence, no problem.





After shopping for leather coats, and being blinded by tears when I saw the price tags, it was time to find a cool spot for a tall cool one.  And, by tall cool one, I only wish I were talking about the raven haired, dark-eyed beauties swishing by in diaphanous skirts and blouses.  Father Savonarola, you must be burning over in your grave.

But, no, I’m talking about wine and beer.  Take what you get and remain the portrait of grace and tranquility.  Rested after a leisurely wine or two?  Time to move on.

Maybe you’d like to idle a few moments visiting the final resting places of the giants.  Michelangelo, Dante, Rossini, Galileo, among many others.  Trot over to the Basilica di Santa Croce. Don’t worry, Florence is compact, so it’s an easy walk.  But, touring the basilica will take awhile.  Purchase a map at the entry to avoid missing the highlights.

Basilica di Santa Croce



Galileo's  Tomb

Michelangelo's Tomb

Dante's Tomb


It’s hot.  You’re sweaty and tired again.  Time is almost up.  You have one more mission-that’s-possible, and you’re a fool, Ethan Hunt, if you don’t accept it.  In a word:  Gelato!

You’ve heard of the frozen, Italian confection, but maybe you always thought, “Ah, what the hell, just another word for ice cream.”  Is that your final answer?  Lots of differences.  Gelato has less fat (5 to 7% instead of 10%), less air (25% vs 50%), and isn’t frozen as solidly.  The differences add up to a more intense flavor.  But, do they have sugar-free, lactose-free, calorie-free, made only from sustainable plants, sold at fair-market prices, in factories where workers are paid a living wage, and have free healthcare, including contraceptive devices????  Gosh, I don’t know.  I’ll have two scoops while I do the research.







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