Stroud Is All Over the Place: Port Wine

Showing posts with label Port Wine. Show all posts

Monday, April 24, 2023

Lisbon in Glimpses and Flashes of Color

A week in Lisbon is tantalizing. I did my best to scratch each photographic impression into my mind, and fold them into memories of the people I met, the smiling faces, and imagines of this wonderful city.

Lisbon is a happy place, remarkably so. Formed by fragmented centuries of war, conquest, fearless explorers who circled the globe, monarchy, revolution, dictatorship, and the never to be forgotten earthquake of 1755 that sent thousands to their eternal rest, and nearly wiped clean the face of Lisbon’s history.

And what about the explorers roaming the seas, and bringing untold wealth and power to one of the smallest countries in Europe? Then moving forward into the modern age of dictatorship and the Second World War, when Portugal stayed neutral and became the chosen nest for spies.

What happened to the Portuguese monarchy? And how did Portugal become a democracy?

But, my intent is not to teach history…well, only with wide and cumbersome brushstrokes between idle moments of sipping wonderful Portuguese wine and tasting the remarkable cuisine.

However, I must add a historical note about the most famous of Portuguese wine, Port. There’s a good reason why so many in Lisbon speak English and why so many of the notable houses of Port, carry English names.

The Treaty of Windsor, signed in 1386, created an alliance between Portugal and England, an alliance still in existence, and the oldest in the world.

Transportation is remarkably handy and inexpensive. The taxi ride from the airport was about $20 and most taxi trips in the city cost about $7, plus the quaint trollies (a perfect way to mix with the natives) and buses are even less expensive and provide you with do-it-yourself tours of the city.

That should be enough historic teasing to make you do a bit of your own research, immediately book a hotel and sign up for a flight. If you want to know more about this fascinating city…Ya gotta go!

The wine is Vino Verde, or green wine. Lightly sparkling and delicious. The croquettes are what else....bacalau, cod fish.

One of the countless wonderful restaurants.

Lisbon is a city of tiles...everywhere...on the streets, and on the sides of houses

The Famous Time Out Market. Now a fabulous food court.

One of the dozens of food stalls in the market.

We stumbled across a huge flea market, looked until we were ready for a cafe and more wine.

Note the cobble stone street in the old city.

The astoundingly beautiful Jacaranda trees are all over the city.

A wonderful salad of thick custard and brie.

Inside one of Lisbon's oldest cafes, A Brasileira, opened in 1905.

One of the many Tuc-Tucs I wrote about earlier. How else to take a tour through narrow streets of the old city?

A very serious dessert! Delicious! Many spoons dipped into this tasty paradise!

The famous Bacalau, salt cod, soaked in water before it is grilled. So does it taste salty? Not in the least. Wonderfully delicious.

The salmon is also wonderfully delicious!

And you must have wine or be thought a heathen.

Something about yellow buildings that I find so very appealing.

Many of the buildings and the old doors date back to the 18th and 19th centuries.

You can't just drink wine! Sometimes you just need a Manhattan.

Or maybe a bucket sized gin and tonic.

And then there's breakfast...

And of course Lisbon's most famous pastry, Pastel de Nata!

Lisbon, both old and new are prefect for a stroll.

I told you this is a wonderful city!!

Friday, May 18, 2018

Port Wine in Porto

The first question from my careful and VERY discriminating readers: Wass up wit like you know, Sherry and Port? They’re like the same, right?

Before I answer that penetrating question from those addicted to the word “Like,” I offer one comment and some recommendations. First, the comment: You may not be old enough to drink and I’m going to have to see at least four forms of ID and a note from your like-mother.

Recommendations: Such as, Almost, Possibly, Maybe and a blank space as reasonable alternatives. Remaining deathly silent will be like a crowd pleaser.

But, for those brave souls who marched stoutly through puberty, I offer a thumbnail sketch of Sherry vs Port. Feel free to ‘like’ like it or not.

Port and Sherry are both fortified wines.

What is a ‘fortified wine? Another question already? Ok, I know it’s impolite to like-ask a question with a like-question.

The answer is quite simple. Fortified means additional alcohol is added, which stops fermentation, leaving some residual sugar and a sweeter wine. The further along the fermentation process is, the drier the fortified wine. The additional alcohol is referred to as aquardente and may come in any form, from brandy to other distilled spirits. The result is an alcohol content of 18 to 20%, as opposed to unfortified wine’s 11-13%.

Differences between sherry and port: Sherry comes from Jerez in the extreme southern part of Spain. Port comes from the Douro Valley in the north of Portugal. Sherry is usually a blend of various vintages (the Solera Method), while Port is normally a single vintage. Yes, there are more differences, but instead let’s concentrate on Port.

Port comes in these three varieties: White, Ruby, and Tawny. Vintage Ports are mostly of the Tawny variety, although I did acquire a 20 year old white Port.

As a rule, taste-wise, White tastes a bit lighter, Ruby is a bit heavier and sweeter, and Vintage Tawny is as smooth as the unexpected caress of the woman your wife warned you about.

BUT, if you’re eating dark chocolate, skip the caress and pair your indulgence with Ruby Port. The blend of the two flavors will astonish you.

If you’re in Porto, Portugal and want to sample a variety, do what we did and drop in at Kopke, one of the oldest Port merchants in the city. Cross the Douro River and don't forget to read about the famous bridge. Once you cross, look back for a beautiful view of the port.

At Kopke, you’ll be seated at an elegant table and introduced to the wonders of Port, presented by an attractive and knowledgeable assistant, who will not only explain everything you’re tasting but supply breads, crackers, and chocolates to allow you to pair all your possible choices with food.

Yes, I could go into the glorious flavors of every variety, but you wouldn’t remember and taste is so personal. I love a 40 year old Port (yes, we sold our car and gave right of first refusal on our first born), you may very well prefer a more modest vintage. The pairing with dark chocolate and the applause of our taste buds also ‘forced’ us to a purchase a delightful Ruby Port as well. The Kopke selections are nearly impossible to say no to.

So now it’s time for the quiz. But, first… need a refill on that Port? And another bit of luscious dark chocolate?

Screw the quiz, you’re already an A student.

Sunday, April 15, 2018

Porto, Portugal, Mercado do Bolhão

No matter where I visit, I always find my way to the local farmers’ market. I realize buying food isn’t usually something you stuff in your suitcase. But, I go anyway. I’ve walked away with a fish carton at Tokyo’s famous Tsukiji Fish Market, packed away canned sardines in Etratat on the Normandy coast, and chorizo in Santiago, Spain.

There are things other than fresh fruits and vegetables to buy, especially for inquisitive shoppers. And the people? They make the market. In Santiago, it was an older shopkeeper who went out of her way to help a confused traveler find a shop where nuns make the finest tarta de Santiago . In Metz, France it was a woman selling cheese who tested my meager French, then twisted my arm to taste half a dozen. So what was it in Porto?….gimme a sec, I’m coming to that.

Each market is a vastly different experience. Different smells and flavors. Can you get the right chocolate for Spanish hot chocolate in Charleston? Or how about shrimp and grits in Madrid?

Listen to what I’m telling you: Visit the markets! Chat with the people! Listen to the music of the voices and find a cornucopia of delights.

Mercado do Bolhão in Porto, Portugal is a wonder. By the way, don’t get tongue twisted over Bolhão, it’s pronounced Bol-yo and an easy walk from downtown.

But, let me summarize the essence of markets, the things that attract me faster than a swimsuit optional beach? You think I exaggerate? Ok. Maybe a little, but the pull to visit a market is strong! There are always different things to see, sounds to hear, things to taste, people to talk to, architecture to admire. A market draws you into the beating heart of a city and it’s people. Of course, merchants are eager to sell, but also possess a fount of knowledge about their city and for those of you hooked on gardening, it’s is a wonderful source of information.

What’s that, you don’t speak French or Portuguese or German or southern? Fear not and march bravely forward. Every market I’ve been to has an English speaker nearby and pointy-talky works just as well. “How much is this?” you ask. The response is gibberish to your untrained ear. Your look is as blank as if a doctor asked the date of your last tetanus shot. The seller immediately either writes the answer, or shows you the number on a calculator.

I mentioned architecture. In Porto, the market came about in 1893, but wasn’t covered until 1914…yes, Portugal missed out on a couple of world wars and has never mourned over it.

Built on or near a swamp, Bolhão, according to what I have read, means Big Bubble. Swamp no more, it’s in the center of town and an easy walk from most downtown hotels.

So, what did I do there besides gawk and take photos and wonder if there were a swimsuit optional beach? Are you familiar with Port Wine? Similar to Spanish Sherry. I’ll write more about that in a follow-on blog entry, but right now, I’ll tell you we found a wonderful older couple who had a matchless array of wines and ports and didn’t mind chatting about all of them. What’s your pleasure? Ruby? Tawny? Old, young, sweet, dry…..we’re talking ports now, gentlemen, so control yourselves. They poured and with each empty glass, they poured more. We drank and listened and learned. The couple alone were worth the visit.

We tasted the younger ports, then tried the ten year old, then the twenty year old, then the forty year old. The white, the ruby, the tawny, finally settling on a forty year old tawny. At least I think that’s what we settled on. At that point it was hard to tell. Could have been four acres of land and two cows. But nobody mooed at me on the way back to the hotel and I didn’t have dirt under my fingernails, so I’m pretty sure we just bought port. Anyway, it’s says 40 Years old and my depleted bank account confirms it.

Photo from Bakespace, which also offers a recipe: http://www.bakespace.com/recipes/detail/Pastel-De-Nata-%28Portuguese-Custard-Tarts%29/68971/

So, anything else we bought or sampled or can’t discuss? Yes, matter of fact we tried the famous Porto cream tarts. They’re called nata (cream) tarts, but the taste is a very rich vanilla pudding, with a deliciousness and aroma that made my maddened taste buds shout for more. Yes, I surrendered to gluttony. After all, you’re only fat and in Porto once!

I’d write more, but now I’m in the mood to let the photos tell the rest, while I sneak another sip or six of some fabulous port!