Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts

Thursday, April 21, 2016

Rizzi: A restaurant and more in Baden Baden




When I say restaurant, I don’t mean barbecue or fast food.   A BBQ joint is a joint, not a restaurant.  Too snobbish?  Not at all.  I sometimes go a hundred miles out of my way to sample fall-off-the-bone smoked meat.  But, it’s still not a restaurant.  Fast food?  All you can eat buffets?  Abominations!  Cavemen ate better, even on a bad hunting day.

A restaurant worthy of the name has an almost indefinable aura of sophisticated comfort, with well-conceived dishes, where art and flavor come together in a heavenly amalgamation of culinary splendor.  As a close friend of mine says, “If you come away thinking I could have done better, you may have just eaten, but it wasn’t in a restaurant.”

A restaurant makes you feel so comfortable you know right away you’d like to come back, even before you sample the cuisine.  My perfect restaurant is dimmed, but not dark.  The wait staff wears starched shirts, clean waist aprons, and is professional enough to know you don’t EVER stack plates on a diner’s table.

 The silverware and crystal gleams.  There may be a single flower in a vase, or a small candle, and the only condiments are salt and pepper grinders.  If there are table cloths, they are starched and white. The waiter politely hands you an opened menu, he doesn’t toss it on the table as someone would scraps to hungry dogs.  He’s friendly, but not overly familiar.  With a hint of a smile, he easily recites the chef’s evening selections.  I found such a hideaway in Baden Baden.  Rizzi.




 Rizzi inhabits a sizeable faded pink, stucco and brick building on the Lichtentaler Allee. (http://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2016/04/in-baden-baden-on-lichtentaler-allee.html) You could walk right by it, sandwiched as it is between two huge and fabulously fabulous hotels where the rich and famous have gathered for more than a hundred years.  But, do stop, if only for a drink.



 Stepping under the canopied entryway, we head for the elegant bar. The bar of a restaurant adds to the atmosphere and offers a quiet place to sip and reflect on whether the waitress that just floated past with a full tray was also carrying food. 


Igor at work


The barman is smilingly attentive and builds drinks with a flourish, just as you like them.  No silly gimmicks of burning cinnamon sticks, or artificial syrups. 

 “Use Lillet instead of vermouth for my martini, please, with a twist of lemon.” Bond, James Bond...or rather Ian Fleming has taught me a thing or two.

“Of course, sir, and do you have a preferred gin?  If not, may I suggest a German gin?  Monkey 47.”  He knows every libation on his bottle-lined back counter. Igor is as smoothly efficient as an English butler.  Politely deferential without being obsequious.  You only need whisper your desires.  By the way, the martini is fabulous and that comes from a man who has been under the spell of Martinis in the very best of places. My companion has a delicious Moscow Mule, with just the right kick from freshly cut ginger root.

A few tidbits to nibble?  Of course.  Salted peanuts and flavored chips appear in dainty dishes.  “Just a moment,” Igor says, and returns with chunks of crusty Italian bread.  He comes around the bar and adds virgin olive oil, balsamic, Parmesan, and black pepper to our small plates.

We discover with our first sips that it is here we want to linger and dine.   We mention it to Igor. “Do you have reservations?” he asks.  We tell him, no.  “Just a moment,” he says and in a short while he has worked his magic and we’re escorted to our table.  We came at the right time.  When we first climbed onto bar stools, the restaurant was meagerly populated, but after being seated for dinner, the place fills up.  The hum of conversation and laughter float past.  Waiters and waitresses do a delicate ballet, avoiding each other and the crowd of patrons, while balancing full trays.

Ok, you say, but you come to a restaurant for food, right?  Correct.  And we are not disappointed.  Delighted in fact.  My date’s primavera salad with succulently grilled shrimp and my pasta with scampi quiets our conversation, even before the first bites.  Heavenly aromas envelope us.  The house white wine is sensationally smooth and fruity on the nose.  A meal to remember. I could not have done better!





 So, what is it that really makes Rizzi so special?  Easy.  The atmosphere is elegantly comfortable, the food delicious, but in the end, the whole dining experience is special because the staff made us as feel special as A-listers.


Salut! Prost! Cheers!  And if you get to Baden, drop in to Rizzi and say hello to Igor.

Friday, March 15, 2013

Über die Landschaft – the German Countryside

Gettin' out and about
Any German Bakery will be a delicious experience...

See what I mean?


You may even find a flea market or two (Flohmarkt)

In every village there is a church worth seeing.

Flowers must be required by law...they're everywhere




Don’t get me wrong, there’s nothing sissy about camping out in the big cities of Europe, savoring the delights of a five star hotel and going to all the eateries, museums, and festivals that Fodor and Michelin point out.  I do it all the time.  After all, I’m married.

But, for a treat that will forever loom large in your travel memories, grab your car and your camera and scoot through the countryside.  Wander through the villages.  Stop at that little bakery that caught your eye. Try out that little restaurant with a dozen cars parked outside.  Hey, the Germans are friendly and welcoming.

Along your drive, marvel at the broad expanses of fields and forests in shades of green you’ve never imagined.

You’re not going to get lost with a GPS, or a map.  The signs are in German, but we use the same alphabet and you’ll figure out where you are.

Some of the villages have only one restaurant, which certainly isn’t mentioned in the travel guides.  In good weather, you’re sure to see a wurst (sausage) stand (Imbiss).  Grab some coffee or a beer, park the car and wander the narrow streets that have witnessed many, many lifetimes of history.

Ah, but the faint of heart murmur, “What if I don’t know the language???”   You’ve got a forefinger and a smile. What more do ya need?   You might even get lucky and find an older, or a younger person in the mood to practice English.

Why do I pick the opposite ends of the age spectrum?  Germans from ages 50 on up learned survival English at the end of the war.  Simple reason, the economy lay ragged and broken.  The new American bases offered jobs.  But, you had to speak English.

For the young, it’s a different situation.  English TV and music permeates the media.  Depending on where you live, you may have to search for German music on the radio.  Then there are the schools.  German kids take six years of English.  The rub is, their teachers are no better than ours and how many of us felt comfortable after a few years of high school French, or Spanish, or German?  But, German kids are approachable.  Usually you’ll get a smile and either an answer, or a shrug.  A common answer is:  “I only speak a little, “ meaning the kid just read Moby Dick in English and can sing along with the American Country Countdown.

Don’t mean to jump into a German lesson, but here are a few basics:

Hello is ‘Hallo,’ pronounced ‘Hallow.’

Goodbye is ‘Tchus’ and if you can’t manage that, just use the Italian, ‘Ciao,’ pronounced chow.  Damn near universal these days.

What is that?  ‘Was ist das?’  pronounced  ‘Vas isT das?’

Where is….?    ‘Wo ist…..” then add an English word that’s the same as German:  Bank, Restaurant, Hotel. 

Please is ‘Bitte,’ pronounced like bitter if you grew up in Boston.

Thanks is ‘Danke,’ pronounced ‘Danka.’

Ok, now you’re armed for a leisurely sweep through the rolling hills, the tiny villages, the broad expanses of a green countryside that almost defies description.  You’ll stride fearlessly into tiny cafes and restaurants and feast on sensational dishes, accompanied by fabulous wines.  Best of all, the prices will be pretty much what you’d expect in America.

Get off the beaten path.  Leave the big cities behind and follow your instincts.  Germany is a wonderful, beautiful country.  Don’t miss it!





Prost!