The map is skewed. Norway had the 6th largest land area in Western Europe |
Oslo's Fjord |
When I mention Oslo, what grabs you? Bright nights? Blizzards and cross country
skiing? Something more personal?
Sweaters flit through my mind. Honestly. Thick
wooly pullovers in geometric patterns of red and white and black. I’d never thought about Norway until a
college friend offered to let a group of us buy Norwegian sweaters at a
discount. That was back in
1965. He had a catalogue and an
overseas girlfriend. She may have
been American. There are some 4.5
million Norwegian-Americans, mostly in the upper mid-west. Big number considering the population
of the home country is just a tad over 5 million, making it the smallest in
population of the Scandinavian countries, the other two being Sweden and
Denmark.
Since that long ago and far away time, Norway’s passed
through the gray cells on occasion. Reindeer herds roaming the tundra. Those perennially popular shoes, Bass
Weejuns. They’re now made in El Salvador, but the name is a shortened form of
‘Norwegian.’
Midnight sun. In Svalbard, Norway, the northernmost
inhabited region of Europe, there is no sunset from approximately 19 April to
23 August. About 30% of Norway is
in the Artic Circle. What in the
flames of Hades does this have to do with Oslo?
Not much, but Oslo does get cooooold. Although it’s well below the Artic
Circle, on the eastern coast, very close to Sweden. No wonder everyone treats the whole area as Scandinavia. Not only are the three countries close
together, but Denmark, Sweden, and Norway have been so mixed and matched over
the centuries, it’s amazing the puzzle ever got sorted out. In the magic year of 1905 Norway
finally became independent from Sweden.
No bloodshed involved.
One may well asked if the languages are similar. Although, I can’t even say “Bring me a beer”
or “Nice tits!” in any of the three, the locals told me that if you speak one
of the Scandinavian languages, you can understand the other two. Finnish and Icelandic are in different
ball parks.
So, what’s to do in Oslo? You mean after drinking the beer and drooling over the
women, right?
First off, if you’re on a cruise, enjoy the entry through
Oslo’s fjord, although geographically speaking, it not a fjord at all. No steep mountains that race down to
the water’s edge. But, it’s commonly called a fjord and the island views are
still magnificent.
Frogner Park. Contains the ‘don’t you dare miss it’
Vigeland Sculpture Arrangement.
The park is the largest in the city and the Arrangement is the largest
sculpture park by a single artist.
What kinds of sculpture?
Men, women, children, captured in stone in astonishing poses. Singles. Groups. You start by giving the vast space a
quick once over and a yawn, but soon the emotions grab you, the strains of
happiness, anger, and angst. Even
when your visit is over, the statues will haunt you.
The Munch Museum. Edvard Munch is one of the world’s
best-known expressionist painters.
Think the expressionist were all French? Started out that way.
Check out Munch’s most famous painting, The Scream, and notice the
similarities. By the way, he did
four versions of The Scream, three of which are in Norway. See two examples below, one a version
of the painting and the other a wood block. *
The Viking Ship Museum
contains three rare examples of the ships of legend, all of them found by two,
bored teenage boys who in 1879 decided to dig in a large mound near their
family’s farm.
The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History let’s you step back in time and see how Norwegians
lived through the centuries.
There’s a museum and also a village, complete with costumed enactors
doing crafts and making old-style foods.
You take one look at those old houses, with barely a shred of
insulation, fireplace heating, no running water, and you find yourself
wondering how the hell did they keep from freezing!
Speaking of culture, think back to your high school English
classes. The name Henrik Ibsen
bring back memories? “Doll’s
House” ring a bell? Shakespeare
and Ibsen are the world’s most performed dramatists. Ibsen draged drama kicking and screaming into the
modern world.
Norwegians did a lot of Polar exploration. The Fram
Museum honors them.
Another neat thing about all the museums is that they’re
only walking distance apart.
One tidbit of info: Grab a hop-on-hop-off bus that will
give you a quick tour of the entire city and cater to your yearning to jump off
and take a closer look. But,
choose your bus company carefully.
We unfortunately picked a middle-eastern company that pissed me off with
lengthy delay after lengthy delay.
Patronize a Norwegian bus company!
Their buses run every 15 minutes.
I know for certain.. I had
plenty of time to check my watch.
Oslo is modern and expense, but it’s also built on history
and thrift. The bad thing about a
cruise is that you often must rush.
Oslo is not the kind of city you can explore in a few hours. Sure you can see the sights, but with
any city worth mentioning you need to hang out in the pubs, check out the
restaurants, chat with the locals.
Oslo is no exception.
Shopping, drinking, eating...all in Oslo |
Oslo's Opera House |
One thing I can say with certainty, the sweaters have gotten
a lot more expensive!
More tidbits:
Norwegian Krone is the currency. No Euros here!
Constitutional monarchy, with a parliamentary system and
royalty is King Harald V, King of Norway, Prince of Denmark, and Prince of
Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Glücksburg.
See what I mean about Sweden, Denmark, and Norway’s histories being
tangled.
* Want to know more about Edvard Munch’s life The 1976 eponymous film, by Peter
Watkins, was called by Swedish director Ingmar Bergman, “a work of genius.’
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