I’ve been to The Bunch of Grapes pub a bunch of
times. It’s on Brompton Road, a few
short blocks from the polished brass doors of Harrods Department Store. Convenient. But, in London, convenience does not trump great
beer, wonderful food, or startlingly posh décor. The Bunch of Grapes has all three, PLUS the
convenience. Don’t bother to search. Great
is right down the street.
In 1777 The Bunch of Grapes
had just opened, making it older than the United States. Wait a sec.
Didn’t the U.S. start in 1776.
Nope. Not until 1783 and the
Treaty of Paris. Win that bar bet!
Inside this pub, the pure
Victorian décor dates from the late 19th Century. Dark wood.
Magnificent cut-glass privacy panels. Privacy was essential to the Victorian upper
classes. Women and men did not sit together, for the simple reason that upper
class men did not drink or smoke in the presence of ladies. For the upper classes, the key was etiquette
and decorum in all things.
Discretion ruled, as did
Queen Victoria, from 1837 until her death in 1901. Often called the Pax Britannica, it was not
as stagnant as some think. The
population of England, Scotland, and Wales nearly doubled. Peace has a tendency to do that. Unfortunately, it was also the time of the
potato famine, which cut the population of Ireland nearly in half.
Victorian names you might
remember: Disraeli, Gladstone, Arthur
Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes), Charles Dickens.
In this pub, you’re in the middle of that famous era.
The etched glass panels are extraordinary! |
It's the small touches that add atmosphere |
During Victoria’s reign, both
prosperity and poverty increased. Child
labor at it’s worst. Sections of London were poor, in the dire sense that those
of us in the west can no longer comprehend.
Time to get back to the pub,
but it pays to remember the time period that envelopes you as you sit on your
comfortable posterior and sip a pint of English ale.
The very word pub comes from
the Victorians. It’s short for Public
House and it was often asked of a man, ‘Where do you drink?” as opposed to
“Where do you live.”
Want to read more about the
Victorians and pubs? http://www.victorianlondon.org/entertainment/publichouses.htm
So sit back, have a pint of
The Bunch of Grapes eponymous ale, and enjoy stepping into another era. Eponymous??? Means taking the same name.
While you’re ordering that
second pint, take a gander outside, along Brompton Road. It began as open country, morphed to gardens,
which in turn gave way to grand houses. King William III, established his court
at Kensington Palace in 1686, and a town grew around it.
1851 brought The Great
Exhibition. Buildings sprang up, many of
the stately homes came down, and after The Exhibition museums and Harrods took
their place. The Piccadilly Metro Line opened in 1906 and is still one of the
main arteries and the one you rode if you got off at Knightsbridge or South
Kensington station.
See what you can learn
sitting in a stylishly elegant Victorian pub, in the heart of upper crust
Knightsbridge, sipping a real ale and washing down some steak and ale pie, or fish
and chips? Some folks only wander
through the wonders of Harrods and rush off to another place, blissfully
ignorant of the history in front of them and beneath their feet.
A great lesson for all of
us: The more beer you drink, the smarter
you get!
I'm an American living in Ohio, but I had my 21st Birthday Party at Bunch of Grapes 50 years ago! and I've loved it ever since. Back then I was a student at UCL, living in Kensington. It's wonderful there, where you can walk to the Bunch of Grapes!
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