A grand old lady, her stark
white walls and gold lettering gleaming in the sun, The Royal Castle Hotel,
rests placidly by the waterside, overlooking the River Dart and a bay filled
with boats and ships. She has graced the
historic harbor since the 17th Century, or maybe before if you count
previous inns that have occupied the space, including one Sir Francis Drake
stayed in.
You remember Drake. Elizabethan Admiral (a pirate in Spanish
eyes), commander of the victorious British Fleet against the Spanish Armada,
and circumnavigator of the globe.
We didn’t stay at the hotel,
but even if you choose more modest accommodations, it’s essential to at least sit
in the hotel’s Galleon Bar, sip a local DoomBar Ale, and wander around inside to
see the grandeur of an old coach inn. Modest
in some ways, yet splendidly opulent in richly woven rugs, overstuffed seating,
polished brass fittings, and weathered leather.
light ale on the left, cider in the middle, Doom Ale on the right |
Lots of local frequent the Galleon Bar |
The Galleon Bar, it’s said,
features timbers gleaned from the wrecks of the Spanish Armada. That was 1688, so the timing is right enough
and the timbers do indeed look both ancient and notched from previous use.
In England, history never
dies, it just lingers on, cut and polished, and applied to other purposes. History this hotel has in quantity. Mary and William stayed here after arriving
from the Netherlands to claim the English throne. Charles II and his female admirers also spent
some time. Edward VII (1841-1910), movie
stars such as Cary Grant, and the author Agatha Christie are others of
note. The latter changed the name of the
hotel to Royal George in her novel Ordeal
by Innocence.
Charles II owns a special
place in English history. His father,
Charles I lost a war and lost his head.
Charles II also lost a war, but after Oliver Cromwell’s death and the restoration
of the monarchy, he mounted the throne.
In The Royal Castle, you not
only have history served on a platter, but if you’re lucky, in the dark of the
evening, you may even hear the whinny of horses or the cracking of a whip as a
phantom stagecoach picks up equally phantom passengers by the front door. Hey, you can’t call yourself a true English
hotel without a ghost or two!
Didn’t stay in any of the 25 hotel
rooms, but I hear they are individually decorated in sumptuous antiques, some
featuring four posters and modernized by the addition of Jacuzzis.
Top of the stairs looking down on the sitting area. Note the bells on the top left. |
There’s a seafood restaurant
on the ground floor and another dining room above that looks out over the
harbor. But, whether you stay or eat or
both, do not miss the chance to trip up the winding staircase that looks down
on a sitting area. On the top floor is
an old library featuring leather-bound volumes of hotel registers.
On the wall above the sitting
area, look for the 20 bells, in the long ago used by guests to call for
assistance from the staff.
We camped in The Galleon bar
for some time, ordering plowman’s lunches (cheese, salad, and bread), while we
quaffed an ale or two and watched the locals.
The Royal Castle Hotel is a
friendly, welcoming place. You could
stay awhile, soaking in the history of the weapons and nautical gear on the
walls. You may be sitting where royalty
sat. It’s a comfortable feeling and you
may stay awhile. We did.
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