Stroud Is All Over the Place: Three Nights in Oxford, UK

The Bridge of Sighs, named after the one inVenice

Took a three night trip to Oxford, and I don’t mean Mississippi, although they both have something in common. Oxford, Mississippi and Oxford, England both are college towns.

Maybe one day I’ll write about Miss-iss-ippi, but this time I’m talking about pubs, fish and chips and a university that’s got 36 colleges, one of which, Balliol College (Ba-lee-aal) dates back to 1263, founded by a nobleman, John I de Balliol and is the oldest. Are there some young ones? Yes, but I won’t get into youth and perhaps embarrassments. Read on.

An interesting spot, Oxford, and not just the University. Downtown Oxford is all stone buildings and museums and excellent restaurants and pubs as old as Shakespeare’s plays. Matter of fact it’s said William visited The Crown pub (itself dating back to 1364).

At Shakespeare’s time it was an inn, with drink and rooms for overnight travelers. No longer an abode for dusty pilgrims, but The Crown does have great food and Doom Bar, my favorite beer. Old style, pulled from the keg. You’ll find the pub down an alley, but no worries. A huge sign over the entry gives you a clue. The Crown is now nestled in what was once the stables and outhouses. Careful where you step!

But by the way, English beer/ale/bitter, sometimes gets a bad rap from Americans, with unkind slander: It’s warm! It’s flat.

The slanders are dead wrong. Kegs are kept in the cellar, which is 55 to 60 degrees cool and instead of being pumped with carbon dioxide (CO2), British keg beer (often called Real Ale) gets a lighter touch of fizz from natural yeast. For my taste buds, real ale is softer and tastier, and like a first kiss it’s surprisingly wonderful.

Ok, out of the pub and back to the 36 colleges at the University of Oxford. All 36 are autonomous, self-governing corporations within the University. There are other autonomous corporations within the University, all of which tend to be academic.

Yes, you can visit some colleges, but be sure the one you want to visit is open to visitors. Days and times vary. We visited Christ Church College, still a functioning church, as well as a college, and the seat of the Bishop of Oxford.

I could go on about things to see and do in Oxford, so I will! Another treasure is the Bodleian Library, begun in 1320 in the University Church of St Mary the Virgin. The church is still used for meetings, and over the centuries the library has expanded again and again. The original books are still there and are still in use by scholars since 1602. These days the library accepts every book printed in the UK and has for several centuries. At present, the library holds 13 million printed items. Besides the books, the architecture is magnificent, and something to see, inside and out. Also of note is the Divinity School is a part of the library.

Time to talk about a couple of museums, of which the Ashmolean is the most noted and most popular. There you’ll find both an astounding array of art and archaeology. Surprised you’ll find the Ashmolean was founded by Elias Ashmole and donated to the University of Oxford in 1677? As you know by now, like Rome, Oxford University was not built in a day! Let me give you a taste of what you’ll find in this museum: The death mask of Oliver Cromwell and an Arab ceremonial robe owned by Lawrence of Arbia. The museum is right across the street from the Randolph Hotel.

From the front of the Ashmolean looking toward the Randolph Hotel

Another museum you don’t want to miss is the Pitt Rivers Museum. Filled with curiosities from countries and civilizations around the world. You’ll find arts, crafts, weapons, ships and other startling things from tribes and areas of the world you never knew existed. Take my word for it, this is not a hurry-up situation! I was astounded by the unique ways people have found to murder and slaughter fellow humans! Also, if you think tribes of Native Americans and those on every other continent lived quietly and in peace, think again.

After a day of walking, exploring and visiting pubs, it’s time to sit and rest in comfort. You’ll want to settle in at the five star Randolph Hotel. I just showed you a picture above.

Too expensive? We paid $250 per night for a lovely room and a wonderful bar called The Morse Bar, from the Morse novels by Norman Colin Dexter and the TV series. I could spend every evening in that bar, whether or not I chose to try out quality alcohol of every persuasion, served by wonderfully dressed bartenders, who treat you as though you were of the rich and famous.

The hotel opened in 1866 and has been refurbished along the many years, but still manages to keep the feel of elegance. Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to pull yourself away from the fantastic bar long enough to treat yourself and your loved one or at least someone to a high tea in one of the hotel’s lovely dining rooms. “Would you care to have another cup of glorious tea My Lady, or perhaps some dainty finger sandwiches and macaroons and other splendid sweets?”

Yes, I’m sure you would say yes, and then perhaps a flute of champagne?

You’ll find there is more to England than London, although that too is special. Wonderful cities and ancient villages call the traveler and among the best of the best is the ancient university of Oxford. Don’t race through it. Give yourself time to settle in and make yourself a slave to elegance and history and a new way of life. Oxford!

Things I didn’t mention that are worth a mention:

How to get there? Ask at any kiosk or at the Heathrow Airport bus terminal for the bus to Oxford. Tickets cost about $30 to $40. There is a bus that leaves every 20 minutes and in about 1 hour and 30 minutes drops you off in downtown Oxford.

If you're going from Oxford to London, there's another bus.

The Martyrs Monument (across the street from the Randolph Hotel): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martyrs%27_Memorial,_Oxford

The Ivy, splendid for breakfast, lunch, or dinner