London Today, Yesterday, and Tomorrow

 

London has a sameness, an old grandmother of a city, but at the same time, you might easily be surprised by changes.  

 

Where I stayed in Kensington, there were five coffee shops on the street facing the hotel. Four of them no longer accept cash.  Gotta use a card.  One waitress offered to take cash, but added, “I have no way to give you change.”  It was £5 for coffee and toast.  I had a £20 note.  No choice but to use my card.  Nothing appeared on the menu and no warning on the front door that said cash was not used.

 

London (don’t know about the rest of Britain) is not the only place on earth getting rid of cash. Sweden is almost cashless and furthermore your card better be a “tap” card, although some places may still accept the old fashioned cards.

 

In London pubs, at least ones I went to, do accept cash, but I wonder for how long.

 

Not everything is changing. Pubs are still open at eleven o’clock or noon. I don’t know why; some are 11 and some are 12.

London has a vast array of museums of every sort, 192 museums in fact, placing them #5 in the list of cities with the most museums.  You can look up the rankings, but you probably want to know who is #1. Paris with 297.

 

My favorite London museums are, in no special order:

 

The British Museum with everything imaginable, including miles of architectural exhibits from all over the world, as well as the famous this and that, of which my favorite is the Rosetta Stone, from which linguists learned the secrets of many ancient languages.

 

The National Gallery, housing art of every sort, including a masterful collection of Impressionist paintings.

 

And very close to the National Gallery is The National Portrait Museum where I recently viewed a collection of David Hockney’s work. 

 

The V & A Museum (Victoria and Albert), which houses so very many cultural items.  I had a wonderful guided tour, with a guide who knew everything about clothes worn through the ages.

 

There are many war museums, including Churchill’s War Rooms and The Imperial War Museum, plus many others.

 

Special exhibits change, so look before you go.

 

How about evening activities?  My favorite, bar none, are the theatres. I buy my tickets at the discount kiosk in Leicester Square. Leicester is pronounced Lester.

 

Very easy to get around in London.  The Tubes (Underground rail) connect every part of the city. With a new twist, you no longer have to use an Oyster Card as a ticket, which is a card that you refill with £ on machines (that are in every station). These days you can use your credit or debit “tap” card to ride.

 

How about getting from the States to London? There are Atlantic crossings if you prefer to go by ship.  Or, if you want to dash over and back, air travel is in great supply.  My two favorite airlines to London are Virgin Atlantic and British Air.  Not fond of the U.S. airlines. 

 

Heathrow and Gatwick are the two major airports that service London.  Very similar in distance, but my favorite is Heathrow with an easy tube ride to the Kensington area where I usually stay. Lots of nice hotels, pubs, restaurants, and transportation to every part of the city.

 

I’ve been to London off and on for over five decades and written of my adventures.  Below is a list of those on my blog.

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2017/11/theres-something-about-london.html

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2016/01/posh-london-tour-of-st-james-street.html

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2015/04/london-various-pubs-various-pleasures.html

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2015/02/going-down-tubes-part-tube.html

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2014/12/finding-london-bookstores-adventure.html

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2013/11/the-national-portrait-gallery-london.html

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2012/06/down-tha-local-tasty-british.html

 

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2021/11/theatres-fun-in-london.html  Especially for plays, it’s best to check online.  Theatre productions come and go.

 

When to go?  I like early fall, or early spring.  Not so crowed and I’ve had great luck with the weather.  BUT, whenever you go, London is going to be a wonderful treat!

Bar Américain, Among the Swankiest of Swanky London Bars

 

Bar Américain

Bar Américain, Among the Swankiest of Swanky London Bars

 

In London, I do most of my drinking in pubs, the pride of England’s social life.  Pubs are a social leveler where you see tattooed, scraggly construction workers idly chatting with coat and tie business men and clusters of women old and young passing the time of day over pints of brew and glasses of wine, and cider.

 

But, there is another side to London’s drinking habits, a classier side with women in elegant dresses, men in coats and ties and  delightful cocktails that cost nearly as much as…well, you get the picture.

 

On my last trip to the capital of English money and the scene of English fashion, I dropped a few £ at a very classy watering hole, Bar Américain, deep inside and downstairs in the Brasserie Zédel, which is not to be confused with the world famous American Bar in the landmark Savoy Hotel.  The American bar is world famously historical for a reason and I’d easily slip in for a sip or six, but right now let’s concentrate on Bar Américain.

What makes a good bar?  In my opinion you only need one word: gentility.  But since my three faithful readers no doubt need a wider explanation, I have one right here and ready.   A gentile bar requires comfortable seating, music at a level fit for the low tones of polite conversation, subdued lighting that speaks of luscious romance, with a wait staff that is not there to be your friend, but to serve you with care and consideration.  The staff wear classically smart uniforms of a quality meant to serve the queen.  Should you choose to sit at the bar, which I normally do at 45 Jermyn Street, the bar staff must be incredibly knowledgeable and ready to provide a depth of information about each and every bottle behind the bar. No doubt they have tasted each and at times wept over the wonderful flavors. Only mention tune of your taste buds, and they will offer samples of those drinks for which you are not familiar. And while you sip at the table or the bar, you will munch on an assortment that begs you to ask:  Where did you find these wonderful tidbits?

 

Need a list of such prominent places to sip and enjoy the evening?  Of course you do.  Although I’ve provided photos of Bar Américain, Here’s a list, but certainly not an all inclusive list, of other of London’s gentile places to sip and ponder and gaze into those beautiful eyes that….well, we shan’t go too far… and besides, I could barely afford the drinks let alone some frolicsome gazing.

 

American Bar at the Savoy Hotel

45 Jermyn Street (click on the link)

45 Jermyn Street

Duke’s Bar at the Dukes Hotel (click on the link)

Dukes Bar

Any of the bars at the Dorchester Hotel, but especially the Promenade Bar

Don’t you just love the way the English use past participles that we colonials has let drift away:  I shan’t do that, the flowers smelt nice, I hope you have learnt from your mistake.  (But if used as an adjective you still must used learned)  It was a lesson well learned.

 

Even the use of shall has faded into the past of American English.

 

Ah, well, on we go, back to the gentile Bar Américain.

 

The layout is vast and yet the placement of the tables, and the way the room is broken up and flushed with soft light, gives the feeling of intimacy.  The wait staff, dressed in livery, is both professional and polite.  In seconds you know they are well trained and their job is done with pride.  “What may I offer you, gentlemen?”

 

What about the drinks?  I sipped a Perfect Manhattan.  And what is a Perfect Manhattan?  Your favorite bourbon, with a dash of bitters, and a splash of both sweet and dry vermouth, with a sweet cheery.  Because I know you’re sitting on the edge of your seat to find out….I prefer Four Roses, but oddly enough the original, instead of the single barrel and others from the talented minds of merchandizers. My companion had the same, for a great reason.  Not only is our favorite cocktail, it was also our father’s favorite.

 

A Manhattan is best when served in a stemmed, chilled glass, bringing back the days of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall, Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.  Ah, yes, the days when Hollywood stars weren’t just beautiful, they were glamorous, as is the Bar Américain!

So, the next time you’re in London…Well, here’s looking at you, kid!