Showing posts with label Duke's Bar at Dukes Hotel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Duke's Bar at Dukes Hotel. Show all posts

Saturday, December 11, 2021

Bar Américain, Among the Swankiest of Swanky London Bars

 

Bar Américain

Bar Américain, Among the Swankiest of Swanky London Bars

 

In London, I do most of my drinking in pubs, the pride of England’s social life.  Pubs are a social leveler where you see tattooed, scraggly construction workers idly chatting with coat and tie business men and clusters of women old and young passing the time of day over pints of brew and glasses of wine, and cider.

 

But, there is another side to London’s drinking habits, a classier side with women in elegant dresses, men in coats and ties and  delightful cocktails that cost nearly as much as…well, you get the picture.

 

On my last trip to the capital of English money and the scene of English fashion, I dropped a few £ at a very classy watering hole, Bar Américain, deep inside and downstairs in the Brasserie Zédel, which is not to be confused with the world famous American Bar in the landmark Savoy Hotel.  The American bar is world famously historical for a reason and I’d easily slip in for a sip or six, but right now let’s concentrate on Bar Américain.




What makes a good bar?
  In my opinion you only need one word: gentility.  But since my three faithful readers no doubt need a wider explanation, I have one right here and ready.   A gentile bar requires comfortable seating, music at a level fit for the low tones of polite conversation, subdued lighting that speaks of luscious romance, with a wait staff that is not there to be your friend, but to serve you with care and consideration.  The staff wear classically smart uniforms of a quality meant to serve the queen.  Should you choose to sit at the bar, which I normally do at 45 Jermyn Street, the bar staff must be incredibly knowledgeable and ready to provide a depth of information about each and every bottle behind the bar. No doubt they have tasted each and at times wept over the wonderful flavors. Only mention tune of your taste buds, and they will offer samples of those drinks for which you are not familiar. And while you sip at the table or the bar, you will munch on an assortment that begs you to ask:  Where did you find these wonderful tidbits?

 

Need a list of such prominent places to sip and enjoy the evening?  Of course you do.  Although I’ve provided photos of Bar Américain, Here’s a list, but certainly not an all inclusive list, of other of London’s gentile places to sip and ponder and gaze into those beautiful eyes that….well, we shan’t go too far… and besides, I could barely afford the drinks let alone some frolicsome gazing.

 

American Bar at the Savoy Hotel



45 Jermyn Street (click on the link)

45 Jermyn Street

Duke’s Bar at the Dukes Hotel (click on the link)

Dukes Bar

Any of the bars at the Dorchester Hotel, but especially the Promenade Bar






Don’t you just love the way the English use past participles that we colonials has let drift away:  I shan’t do that, the flowers smelt nice, I hope you have learnt from your mistake.  (But if used as an adjective you still must used learned)  It was a lesson well learned.

 

Even the use of shall has faded into the past of American English.

 

Ah, well, on we go, back to the gentile Bar Américain.


 

The layout is vast and yet the placement of the tables, and the way the room is broken up and flushed with soft light, gives the feeling of intimacy.  The wait staff, dressed in livery, is both professional and polite.  In seconds you know they are well trained and their job is done with pride.  “What may I offer you, gentlemen?”

 

What about the drinks?  I sipped a Perfect Manhattan.  And what is a Perfect Manhattan?  Your favorite bourbon, with a dash of bitters, and a splash of both sweet and dry vermouth, with a sweet cheery.  Because I know you’re sitting on the edge of your seat to find out….I prefer Four Roses, but oddly enough the original, instead of the single barrel and others from the talented minds of merchandizers. My companion had the same, for a great reason.  Not only is our favorite cocktail, it was also our father’s favorite.

 

A Manhattan is best when served in a stemmed, chilled glass, bringing back the days of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall, Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.  Ah, yes, the days when Hollywood stars weren’t just beautiful, they were glamorous, as is the Bar Américain!



So, the next time you’re in London…Well, here’s looking at you, kid!

Sunday, July 12, 2020

Anything for a Buddy




Anything for a Buddy

It was an old, but well kept pub in the heart of Kensington, with the smell of hand pulled ale and floating memories of conversations.  

Josh sat on a stool at a high-topped table and sipped his pint in silence. Muted sounds of street traffic played softly, while the faded afternoon sun crept through muntin windows and crawled across the ancient tiled floor.   His friend, Alex, wanted to say something, but when a man is in the depths, best not to speak, so he just sipped and looked around. 

Josh’s wife had filed for divorce two weeks prior and Alex had gotten him away from the soulful sorrow of a rotting marriage and into the frenzied fun of London.  But, in his experience only one thing did the trick to stop the heartache in a split second.

Part of Alex’s charm was solving problems, but this time was a different sort of problem, with blood spilling from a broken heart.  For the first few days, Alex pressed fun into the open spaces, but Josh showed no interest in museums, the theater, or shopping.  Alex was almost past the point of trying.

He’d offered advice, sparkling wit and booze in the finest pubs.  They all slid off, like Jell-O on a slick wall.  

“Josh, you’ve got to shake yourself loose.  Take a deep breath.  Think of the bad times and kick her ass off that marble pedestal.”

Josh stared down at his pint, tired of the clichés and suggestions.  He wanted to just go back to the hotel and sleep.  Still hadn’t figured out a troubled mind never sleeps.

Alex withdrew into his own thoughts and one of them was how happy he was unmarried. 

He shouldn’t have liked this pub, but he did. He’d been here before with Charlene on their last trip together, before the breakup, when her smiling company was still an enchantment. They should rename The Sergeant at Arms to Bust My Balls. Still, the atmosphere of faded posters and the tin ceiling that must have been here when Henry the Eighth got pissed at the pope, drew him in. It was a kind of soft comfort. 

In Big cities from New York to Hong Kong, Alex frequented establishments where bartenders called customers sir, dressed in black and white livery and remembered the names of the well heeled.   Bartenders always remembered his.

“Who’s the lawyer?”

“Paulie Boy.”  Josh said the name with a straight face. 

Paul Alexander Christopher somehow crept through law school, and the state bar exam with only the half-determined effort of a dying sloth.  

“Why’d you pick him?” 

“We have something in common.  He divorced Margaret’s sister, Peggy.” 

“Who’s Margaret got?”

“Victoria Douglas.”  

Bad luck.  VD, as she was known by a host of poverty stricken ex-husbands, had the killer instinct of a Great White in a pod of seals. Alex knew a few of her victims.

Paulie was a seal.  Alex swallowed his pessimism.

Until now, Josh’s life had ticked like a metronome, while Alex, who worked for the same large global firm, was happily pulled in different directions.  He thrived in the fierce subtleties of negotiations and corporate intrigue.  Charm and persuasion made him invaluable.  The hard heart of a negotiator also made him practically invulnerable to heartache.  By the time he sat down to negotiate, he knew what both sides needed, wanted, and what they had to lose. He followed the same method in his personal life.

If Alex had a fault, it was exuding a confidence that seemed too self-assured, too jutted of jaw, his eyes too blue and uncomfortably intense. Even his friends had the strange feeling they were outside his world looking in.  A thin, vaporous mystique presented him as a man totally in control.  The less assured kept their distance, and their wives close.

Josh took the ordinary path.  If Alex was a corporate lion, Josh was the durable donkey, good work ethic, but only able to stumble up the rungs of the corporate ladder.

These days, Alex was without a woman and as much as he tried to sympathize with Josh’s situation, he just didn’t get the part about closing things down.  No kids?  Woman’s gone?  So what? All she’s taking is a wad of cash and maybe a house. She’s not taking your life. Cash and house you can get back.

Happened sometimes to Alex, women leaving, but instead of wilting, it made him more solid within himself. He carried a careless disregard for fate.  He was normally cautious, with a quiet streak of suspicion, and he found relationships interesting, but only as one of the curiosities of life.  The kind of woman who attracted him possessed strength of independence and a loving personality, someone who stayed close, but didn’t interfere. He hadn’t met her yet.

Why the hell couldn’t his friend brace up?  He looked like a man who needed to use the gent’s, but was afraid of falling in.

Alex understood the psychology of broken hearts less than he understood polynomial equations.  They leave, or you leave, and life goes on.  And, women’s emotional directions were as straight forward as bees in a flower garden.  He preferred his own analysis to the words callous, or unfeeling.  It was a matter of controlling raw emotions and looking beyond the problem.

When Josh’s wife blindsided him by filing for divorce, Josh had wilted like last month’s daffodils. Alex stepped in and looking beyond; he’d paid the airfare and gotten his long-time pal out of town.  The muddy circles under Josh’s eyes, and a set of new wrinkles on the brow showed how well the plan hadn’t worked.   But, Alex saw a no as only one bend in the road.

“Josh, we’re headed to Duke’s Hotel for a martini, and after that a short walk to 45 Jermyn Street. And before we sober up, we’ll take a taxi to the hotel.”

“I don’t….” 

Alex broke in with a smile. “I don’t give a shit what you don’t want to do.  And I’m tired of the sacrificial lamb act.”  A broader smile. ”Cheer up! I want a goddamn drink in a decent bar, with a competent barman and a bill that makes you blink twice.  You’re coming with me.”

Alex’s phone rang.  He gave short answers.

“Who was that?  Who knows you’re in London?”

“Business never stops.”

“But, I’m…”

“I’m buying and we’ll drink where I say.”

Duke’s Bar, at Duke’s Hotel often has a wait time, but they lucked out. A waiter in black trousers and white dinner jacket seated them at a corner table.  

Duke’s bar is more like an elegant sitting room than a bar.  A very comfortable sitting room.  They ordered, or rather Alex ordered Vesper Martinis for the two of them.  The drink cart came and the waiter mixed the drinks in frosty glasses, with an array of frosty bottles, then added a twist of orange peel.

By the third sip, Josh livened up. “Great place,” he said with appropriate enthusiasm.  “And I don’t care if she takes everything.”

“That’s the spirit.  But, the big question is, did you really love her, or was she just a habit?”

Josh scrunched up his face and lightly bit his lower lip.  “I don’t know anymore.”

“Yep, she was a habit.  I’m telling ya, this place and this drink have pixy dust.  Covered with it.  Things happen here that don’t happen anywhere else.

Now turn around in your seat and meet Amelia.”

“What?”

“The woman at the table behind you.”

Josh turned slightly, looking over his shoulder, then turned back to Alex, with astonishment.  “How’d you know her name?”

“Psychic….also she still has a name tag on from some conference.  Want to know more?”

Josh waited.

Alex heaved a deep sigh, as if he was going to lead the horse to water and hold his head under. “She’s here for a conference and drinking at one of the most expensive bars in a town of expensive bars, so she’s got money.  She’s also alone.”

“Maybe she wants to be alone.”

“Unlikely.  Great city.  Maybe her first trip.  Feels like a foreigner.”

“What if she doesn’t want to be bothered?”

“Hi, Amy!” Alex said.

The woman, mid forties, turned with a look caught in the crack between ‘leave me alone’ and it won’t hurt to be civil.’  “How did you know my name?”  On her guard, ready to be offended. She also had an English accent.

Alex pointed to her name tag.  She looked down. Laughed. “I forgot to take the damn thing off.” She unpeeled it, looked down and slipped it in her small clutch. “You here for the conference, too?”

“No chance.  What conference?  Who do you work for?”

“Brooks and Allen.”  She nodded. 

“We’re both with Tex-Martin. But, you’re English.”

“No kidding,” she said. “Big company. London office.”

“Sorry. Should have offered intros.  I’m Alex and my noble friend here is Josh.”  Amy smiled again.  Josh smiled back.  Suddenly he was more animated.

A mountain of small talk followed.  Mostly the two of them, with Alex just along for the ride.  “Listen,” he said, “I’ve got to cut out soon, but I’m sure Josh would like to buy you a drink. We were headed to 45 Jermyn next.”

“I love that place,” Amy said.

“Would you mind taking Josh with you? I really do have to leave.”

Josh gave him a quizzical look.

“Boss called,” Alex said.

“Oh.”

“It would be my pleasure,” Amy said, “but, don’t you want to join us?”

“Would love to, but duty calls.” Alex smiled.

He got back to the hotel.  Made a phone call and gave his credit card number.  “Best thousand bucks I ever spent.” He smiled.  “Anything for a buddy.”



Sunday, March 24, 2019

Three London Bars





Three London Bars

Recently, I went to London with three companions.  To be more precise, I went to London with three guys who enjoy a good glass or two of booze.  To be even more honest, I share their interests, as well as an abiding love of the London theatre.  If I want to shop or view a few canvases at any of the outstanding London museums, or perchance to stumble on a fabulous London bookstore, there sure as hell better be a nearby pub for these guys to water their horses.  Their interest in books is a dark void and if you keep them in the dark too long, they get testy.  Museums are to be tolerated only if I’m buying the next two rounds.

Two rounds in London can ruin your purse.  Pints of beer run about $6, but if you go where we go for late night exquisitry (don’t waste your time on a Google search, I made that word up, but what the hell, so did Shakespeare.   Time for your spritely comeback, yes?  “Stroud, you’re no Shakespeare!”  You’re correct.  I don’t write plays.  I also don’t wear tight stockings, or use 16thCentury words.  BUT, I do make up a few words of my own.

Speaking of Shakespeare, why did he write with a pen instead of a pencil?  Because he couldn’t decide to use 2B or not 2B.



But, it’s time to cut the gab and get back to some hard currency drinking.

I had a Manhattan at the following celebrated drinking establishments:
The Bar at the Connaught Hotel
Duke’s Bar at Dukes Hotel
45 Jermyn Street (pronounced German Street)


Yes, these dealerships were in the same part of London as the upscale bars.

By the way, in many London upper crust watering holes, be sure to dress well, and as a minimum, for men, proper shoes, proper slacks, and a sports coat. 

Connaught Bar



Numerous accolades, most recently ‘Best Bar in the World,” an award the bar has won a number of time. The décor is extraordinary, and set in a world-renowned hotel.  The bar was crowded the night we wandered in, and no doubt celebrities were randomly strewn in groups here and there, but who can notice when standing back to back at the bar, and when you’re led to your drinking nook, there’s a good deal of privacy. 



The barmen were friendly and efficient. We ordered a mojito, a dirty martini, and two Perfect Manhattans. By the way, PERFECT is not a comment on the quality of the libation, but the name of the drink.  I’ll give you recipes further down the blog.

This is a blog about Manhattans, so I won’t vouch for either the martini or the mojito, but I heard no complains from my friends.  My Manhattan was very very good.  A strong, sipping drink, with just a twinge of sweetness.  Total cost for four drinks:  $145, tip not included.

On to Duke’s Bar


It may interest you to know that Duke’s Bar is where James Bond’s creator, Ian Fleming went to quench his thirst.  And, Duke’s bar is the place to go for a Vesper Martini.  At a bit over $27 per martini, you may want to write several best sellers before you go.   Also interesting is Duke’s martinis are neither stirred nor shaken.  I wrote earlier about Duke’s, so I’ll give you a link and move on to Manhattans.




The chief barman is Salvatore Calabrese, an Italian, well known as the best barman in London, and a celebrity in his own right.  Yes, Duke’s has won ‘Best Bar’ also!


Our Manhattans were smooth and very sippish.   No criticisms noted by any in our drinking party and I noticed none of the other customers smashing glasses or grabbing waiters by the lapels.


Finally, we get to 45 Jermyn Street.


Unlike the other two, which had the feel of ladies and gentlemen’s clubs, 45 Jermyn Street is a bit more relaxed, the place you’d go after an invigorating haircut and beard shaping at Trufitt & Hill, the world’s oldest barbershop, located in nearby St James.  

Perhaps, a few of the 45 Jermyn Street customers just had a flock of shirts made by famous ‘bespoke’ shirt maker, Turnbull & Asser (also on Jermyn Street).

Mustafa and the Perfect Manhattan

We sat at the bar, mainly because I like it there and I also like to chat with the bartenders.  Ours was Mustafa, a Turk raised in London.

It’s worthy of note (or I wouldn’t note it!) that London is not just a melting pot, but a crossroads of east and west, north and south.  Walk down any London street and you’ll hear the nearly silent whispers of Japanese, the raucous sounds of Italian and Spanish, or languages I’ve never heard before, imported from across Europe, Africa and the middle east.  What a delight!

I’ve had my hair cut by a man from Cyprus, but just as Londonish in speech and manner as anyone London born.  Italians run many of the posh bars, including the one I mentioned, Duke’s bar.

Mustafa is the same.  I asked where he was from, but not because of accent or outward appearance.  Oh,no. Mustafa is a London gentleman, pure and simple.  

And now we come to Manhattans at 45 Jermyn Street, of which I have written before.


Mustafa made the best Perfect Manhattan of the lot.  I’ve tried to copy it at home and came close, but not quite point on.  Barely sweet, but strong and most of all delicious! Sometimes a drink, like an exquisite meal, lingers in memory. Mustafa’s Perfect Manhattan is like that.  For my taste buds, it’s heaven in a goblet.

Best of all, Mustafa gave me his recipes for three types of Manhattans:  Sweet Manhattan, Perfect Manhattan, and Dry Manhattan.  I have to add, he used Four Roses as the base liquor.



See what gifts I’ve given you?  A tour of some spectacular drinking establishments and a recipe for an evening of heaven in a glass!


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