Three London Bars

Three London Bars

Recently, I went to London with three companions.  To be more precise, I went to London with three guys who enjoy a good glass or two of booze.  To be even more honest, I share their interests, as well as an abiding love of the London theatre.  If I want to shop or view a few canvases at any of the outstanding London museums, or perchance to stumble on a fabulous London bookstore, there sure as hell better be a nearby pub for these guys to water their horses.  Their interest in books is a dark void and if you keep them in the dark too long, they get testy.  Museums are to be tolerated only if I’m buying the next two rounds.

Two rounds in London can ruin your purse.  Pints of beer run about $6, but if you go where we go for late night exquisitry (don’t waste your time on a Google search, I made that word up, but what the hell, so did Shakespeare.   Time for your spritely comeback, yes?  “Stroud, you’re no Shakespeare!”  You’re correct.  I don’t write plays.  I also don’t wear tight stockings, or use 16^thCentury words.  BUT, I do make up a few words of my own.

Speaking of Shakespeare, why did he write with a pen instead of a pencil?  Because he couldn’t decide to use 2B or not 2B.

But, it’s time to cut the gab and get back to some hard currency drinking.

I had a Manhattan at the following celebrated drinking establishments:

The Bar at the Connaught Hotel

Duke’s Bar at Dukes Hotel

45 Jermyn Street (pronounced German Street)

Yes, these dealerships were in the same part of London as the upscale bars.

By the way, in many London upper crust watering holes, be sure to dress well, and as a minimum, for men, proper shoes, proper slacks, and a sports coat. 

Connaught Bar

Numerous accolades, most recently ‘Best Bar in the World,” an award the bar has won a number of time. The décor is extraordinary, and set in a world-renowned hotel.  The bar was crowded the night we wandered in, and no doubt celebrities were randomly strewn in groups here and there, but who can notice when standing back to back at the bar, and when you’re led to your drinking nook, there’s a good deal of privacy. 

The barmen were friendly and efficient. We ordered a mojito, a dirty martini, and two Perfect Manhattans. By the way, PERFECT is not a comment on the quality of the libation, but the name of the drink.  I’ll give you recipes further down the blog.

This is a blog about Manhattans, so I won’t vouch for either the martini or the mojito, but I heard no complains from my friends.  My Manhattan was very very good.  A strong, sipping drink, with just a twinge of sweetness.  Total cost for four drinks:  $145, tip not included.

On to Duke’s Bar

It may interest you to know that Duke’s Bar is where James Bond’s creator, Ian Fleming went to quench his thirst.  And, Duke’s bar is the place to go for a Vesper Martini.  At a bit over $27 per martini, you may want to write several best sellers before you go.   Also interesting is Duke’s martinis are neither stirred nor shaken.  I wrote earlier about Duke’s, so I’ll give you a link and move on to Manhattans.

The chief barman is Salvatore Calabrese, an Italian, well known as the best barman in London, and a celebrity in his own right.  Yes, Duke’s has won ‘Best Bar’ also!

Our Manhattans were smooth and very sippish.   No criticisms noted by any in our drinking party and I noticed none of the other customers smashing glasses or grabbing waiters by the lapels.

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2015/04/a-martini-worthy-of-james-bond-dukes.html

Finally, we get to 45 Jermyn Street.

Unlike the other two, which had the feel of ladies and gentlemen’s clubs, 45 Jermyn Street is a bit more relaxed, the place you’d go after an invigorating haircut and beard shaping at Trufitt & Hill, the world’s oldest barbershop, located in nearby St James.  

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2017/12/haircut-at-londons-truefitt-hill.html

Perhaps, a few of the 45 Jermyn Street customers just had a flock of shirts made by famous ‘bespoke’ shirt maker, Turnbull & Asser (also on Jermyn Street).

Mustafa and the Perfect Manhattan

We sat at the bar, mainly because I like it there and I also like to chat with the bartenders.  Ours was Mustafa, a Turk raised in London.

It’s worthy of note (or I wouldn’t note it!) that London is not just a melting pot, but a crossroads of east and west, north and south.  Walk down any London street and you’ll hear the nearly silent whispers of Japanese, the raucous sounds of Italian and Spanish, or languages I’ve never heard before, imported from across Europe, Africa and the middle east.  What a delight!

I’ve had my hair cut by a man from Cyprus, but just as Londonish in speech and manner as anyone London born.  Italians run many of the posh bars, including the one I mentioned, Duke’s bar.

Mustafa is the same.  I asked where he was from, but not because of accent or outward appearance.  Oh,no. Mustafa is a London gentleman, pure and simple.  

And now we come to Manhattans at 45 Jermyn Street, of which I have written before.

https://stroudallover.blogspot.com/2017/02/45-jermyn-street-drink-to-savor-in.html

Mustafa made the best Perfect Manhattan of the lot.  I’ve tried to copy it at home and came close, but not quite point on.  Barely sweet, but strong and most of all delicious! Sometimes a drink, like an exquisite meal, lingers in memory. Mustafa’s Perfect Manhattan is like that.  For my taste buds, it’s heaven in a goblet.

Best of all, Mustafa gave me his recipes for three types of Manhattans:  Sweet Manhattan, Perfect Manhattan, and Dry Manhattan.  I have to add, he used Four Roses as the base liquor.

See what gifts I’ve given you?  A tour of some spectacular drinking establishments and a recipe for an evening of heaven in a glass!

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Haircut At London's Truefitt & Hill

I had the world’s greatest haircut at the world’s oldest barbershop.  Just hyperbole?  Nope.  Men, I have to tell you Truefitt & Hill, of which I have previously written, is a man’s world of tonsorial artistry.

https://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2017/01/truefitt-hill-shave-thats-pure-silk.html

Yes, T & H has served the grand and the famous for over two hundred years, including British royalty who still have their grooming needs cared for here.

Truefitt & Hill also sell magnificent shaving products.  As a matter of fact, I used Truefitt’s Sandalwood shaving cream this morning, as I do every morning.  And just over a week ago I experienced a Truefitt & Hill haircut.

If you’re used to a hop in the chair, hop out and think to yourself, “Well, I guess it looks OK,” you haven’t experienced Truefitt & Hill’s barbershop.  I’ll tell you upfront it’s not inexpensive, but then neither is it a normal haircut.

https://www.truefittandhill.co.uk/collections/barber-services

I know you’re skeptical. How much better could a £45 (approx. $60) haircut be?  In my case and my friend’s case, a lot better.  But, before I explain why, let’s put things in perspective. Number one, you generously shell out over $100 for your wife to get her hair styled, snipped and colored, right?  Why not just send her to Simple Sally’s Beauty Salon and Dog Grooming Parlor, for a $15 cut and $15 coloring?  Easy answers. You’re a husband and used to saying, “Yes, dear,” Answer number two, you are a wonderful man and generous to a fault when it comes to the needs of others.  And, finally, you know it’s important to your wife that she look her best in front of her friends whom you can barely tolerate. Doesn’t matter if you have to put off buying that new Porsche.  Yes, you are a selfless and jolly fellow.

But, think of yourself for once. Don’t overdo the selfless bit.  You need to look sharp too and you need the confidence builder that a great haircut brings.

So, here’s my experience and one I will again relive every time I come to London.

I walk into the small, blue fronted shop on 71 St James Street and into a man’s world of shaving paraphernalia.  The shopkeepers, men and women, greet me with genuine smiles and ask if they may assist me. “Yes,” I say,  I give them my name and say I have a barber’s appointment for ten o’clock.

Two clerks give the scheduling book a rapid search, see my name and usher me into a barbershop reminiscent of  the men’s club of Sherlock Holmes’ London days. There are barber’s chairs, but also generously opulent leather arm chairs, both of which I would gladly whisk away to the comfort of my living room.  “Please have a seat, sir, and Michael will be with you in a moment.”  I happily do as I’m told and moments later, a well groomed man appears, tells me his name and escorts me to his station.

In a normal barbershop, the haircut would begin pronto.  Not here.  When Michael asks me how I would like my hair cut, it’s the beginning of a discussion about length and part and style.  Meanwhile, as he listens, he also examines my hair, my scalp, and the shape of my head.  He asks questions to clarify what I want.

What I’ve just told you is the crux of a fabulous haircut and what is so rare in American barbershops.  Michael listens.  My haircut is important to him.  He seeks to understand.

It is only then that the cutting can begin.  This is no ordinary barber, this is a tonsorial artist and his canvas is my hair.  If you think I’m overstating the case, think again. After a light spray of water, he combs and measures, holding up a strand of hair for me to see the length he has gotten from our conversation.  “Yes,” I say, “Exactly that much.”

The haircut goes on with calm and careful assurance. A snip here and there, a re-combing to this side and that.  The artist chats along, as only a man who knows his business can do.  He’s not imparting information as much as he is reassuring his customer.  We talk about his Cypriot background, his wife and kids. He does the calming part well. I’m as relaxed as a man can be, but also intensely curious.  I don’t want to miss a clip a snip, or an instant of the experience.

When the cutting is finished, I lean over a basin and he washes my hair.  After a toweling, he puts a splash or two of Athenian Water on my hair and massages it into my scalp.  It tingles and Michael tells me it invigorates the scalp and helps with healing any naturally occurring abrasions. 

Dried and combed, I’m ready to hop out of the chair.  As I stand, he lightly brushes any stray hairs off my shoulders, then helps me on with my coat.  “Is there anything else I can do for you, sir?”

“As a matter of fact, I’m short of some shaving products and I want a bottle of Athenian Water also.”

So, what’s the final word on my haircut?  The final word is that after a little over a week, the haircut is still wondrous. With only a touch of a brush, my hair falls perfectly.  I can barely believe that even the part falls perfectly. That’s never happened before.

And finally, for $40 less than my wife pays, I exude so much confidence that I’ve even won a few matrimonial discussions.  Michael, you have achieved the impossible! 

 

A Royal Warrant

Truefitt & Hill, you are not only the world’s oldest barbershop, but also the best!