Showing posts with label Croissant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Croissant. Show all posts

Monday, March 30, 2015

Morning Coffee in London



I come to London often.  The usual tourist checklist languishes, forgotten, unless something special draws me, such as the flood of poppies at The Tower of London on Remembrance Day, or museum showings that beg to be seen.

Today, nothing harnesses me to a schedule.  It’s a blessing to dawdle in the great expanse of this city’s ebb and flow.  Without the pressures of time and need, I luxuriate in the moment.



The counter where I place my coffee order is rather tall and bordered by a large, glass display.  Croissants, small spit loafs bursting with cheeses, hams and tomatoes, as well as sweet rolls, sit in perfect rows.  The jeans and black t-shirt staff are an eclectic collection as well: tall, Italian men, short Thai women, all of them polite, but unsmiling.   The Thais glide through the restaurant like apparitions, their only noise a small click as the saucers find the tabletops.



I settle into a side table for two.  My coffee is what the Brits call ‘flat white.’  The Spanish would say café con leche and the French, café au lait.  I am in the same coffee shop I always come to.  Italian and quaint. A mix of tourists and regulars queue up, place their orders and either take away their caffeine in paper cartons, or sit and have it brought to the table.   Service is rapid.  Thick, white porcelain cups, resting on equally thick porcelain saucers, dot the dark wooden tables. A bare semblance of conversation floats in the air.  Could be English, Italian, Greek, Arabic, or any of a hundred other languages.  I catch brief whiffs of the morning patter.  Weather.  Destinations.  Appropriate dress.  My Spanish is as rusty as a weathered nail.

Outside the shop, a sandwich signboard reads, Free Croissants to the First One Hundred Customers, but in fact, croissants come with every morning cup I’ve ever seen in the place.  I munch mine and contemplate the day.  Flakes of my crispy roll float to the table.

Soft music, with catchy rhythm trills in the background.  You treat me like a stranger and it feels so rough.”



The walls feature evocative color photos of men, women, and tourist scenes, pasted together in random order, at odd angles, and doctored with bright colors.  Under them runs a thick dark border, peppered with white writing, expounding witticisms.

Canadian Capitalism:  You have four cows.  An American company buys your cows, then sells them at a profit and declares bankruptcy.   Communism:  You have four cows. The government confiscates them.  Two cows die from mismanagement and you are given only as much milk as the government thinks you deserve.

Beside me, an Italian mother and her ten year old son enjoy their breakfast.  The kid has baked beans on toast and starts to pick up the whole bundle.  The mother quickly intervenes to squelch this approach and the kid soon wrestles with a knife and fork.  I slide a little farther away.  I’ve seen experiments like this go awry.

Ever had an English Breakfast?  Eggs, English bacon, baked beans, sausages, grilled tomato, grilled mushroom, white bread toast.  A delicious, self-inflicted culinary punishment.


These days I stick with a flat white and croissant.

On the street, London is just waking up.

Monday, June 9, 2014

Speaking of Boulangeries - Le Pain Quotidien






I avoid ‘chains.’  Not talking about the medieval versions that make your soul quiver when you play Lord and Serf.  I’m talking about restaurant chains.  Yes, I include Gimmeyerbucks and McBurgers.

Ok.  I do sin occasionally.  And, I swear I’m sorry. Sometimes a man’s gotta have a smack of caffeine anyway he can get it.  But, in the main, when it comes to the big names in fast food, as they say in French, “I defecate upon thy hands with the full force of my churning bowels.

Recently, a close friend introduced me to Le Pain Quotidien, a bakery and coffee shop in the heart of Mons, Belgium.  But, wait a sec…it’s not just in Mons, but in damn near every country that has running water.  Gotta be a mistake.  Can’t be a …dare I mention the word again…CHAIN!  Yes, it is.

Alain Coumont opened his first one in 1990 on 16 Rue Darsaert in Brussels.

What’s so special about Le Pain Quotidien?  How come this chain doesn’t deserve the same retching disgust we reserve for microwave burgers and vending machine coffee?



By the way, in English, Le Pain Quotidien means The Daily Bread.  Daily bread means what it says.  Fresh is the key word.  More than that, everything in this bakery is organic.  Preservatives, flavor enhancers, artificiality, all be damned!





LPQ has the kind of charm that makes you step inside, even if you’ve just finished breakfast.  Authentically, rustic décor.  An irresistible waft of fresh bread. The almost erotic allure of freshly ground coffee. 

You can read all about the history of Le Pain Quotidien on their web page, and also learn where to find the nearest outlet.  http://www.lepainquotidien.com/our-story-history/#.U5WIZhYajwI


But, as always, I’ll give you a thumbnail sketch.  Alain trained as a chef and earned his toque in the same hotel restaurant where his father trained.  But he came by his passion for fresh bread in the best way possible, at his aunt’s knee, baking loaves and tarts on Sunday mornings.  There’s no substitute for the glowing passions you acquire in childhood.

As a chef, he searched all over Brussels for the taste he remembered.  No luck.  Only one thing to do.  Start your own bakery.  His idea was simple:  “Having a place where I can feel at home away from home.”



To me, chains are too often a glitzy failure of artificial atmosphere: an English pub with plastic, pseudo-wood, or a grand old steakhouse, remembered with glass, steel, and recessed lighting.  Doesn’t fool you anymore than replacing a leather basketball with a balloon. Dishonesty comes to mind, followed quickly by stupidity.

Le Pain Quotidien didn’t cut the corners, or introduce a substitute for real charm. It just feels right and inviting.  Lots of old wood, including the counters.  Faded walls look as though they carry the patina of decades.  Chairs creak a bit.  But, the most important part of this bakery is the bread.  Loaves on shelves where you can see them. Fresh. Fresh. Fresh. Crusty and wholesome.




The coffee is dark and rich, without being bitter, or ragged on the edges.  Comes in a bowl, just the way Alain’s hot chocolate did when he was a boy.  Your choice of a large bowl or small.



It was early morning.  I ordered a coffee and a croissant.  Golden. Light. Flaky. Delicious.  Just as a croissant should be.  If you’re thinking crescent roll, get your mind out of the school lunchroom and into somewhere more Gallic.  At LPQ, the croissants are light as air.  Try a smear of orange marmalade, or one of LPQ’s delectable sweet nut spreads. They’re on every table.



You won’t be sorry.  And you’ll find time to linger.  This isn’t just breakfast, this is the start of a beautiful day.


I know I’ve got time.  Who hasn’t got time for another glimpse of childhood on a sunny morning. “Mademoiselle, un autre café, s'il vous plaît.”