Thursday, April 21, 2016

Rizzi: A restaurant and more in Baden Baden




When I say restaurant, I don’t mean barbecue or fast food.   A BBQ joint is a joint, not a restaurant.  Too snobbish?  Not at all.  I sometimes go a hundred miles out of my way to sample fall-off-the-bone smoked meat.  But, it’s still not a restaurant.  Fast food?  All you can eat buffets?  Abominations!  Cavemen ate better, even on a bad hunting day.

A restaurant worthy of the name has an almost indefinable aura of sophisticated comfort, with well-conceived dishes, where art and flavor come together in a heavenly amalgamation of culinary splendor.  As a close friend of mine says, “If you come away thinking I could have done better, you may have just eaten, but it wasn’t in a restaurant.”

A restaurant makes you feel so comfortable you know right away you’d like to come back, even before you sample the cuisine.  My perfect restaurant is dimmed, but not dark.  The wait staff wears starched shirts, clean waist aprons, and is professional enough to know you don’t EVER stack plates on a diner’s table.

 The silverware and crystal gleams.  There may be a single flower in a vase, or a small candle, and the only condiments are salt and pepper grinders.  If there are table cloths, they are starched and white. The waiter politely hands you an opened menu, he doesn’t toss it on the table as someone would scraps to hungry dogs.  He’s friendly, but not overly familiar.  With a hint of a smile, he easily recites the chef’s evening selections.  I found such a hideaway in Baden Baden.  Rizzi.




 Rizzi inhabits a sizeable faded pink, stucco and brick building on the Lichtentaler Allee. (http://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2016/04/in-baden-baden-on-lichtentaler-allee.html) You could walk right by it, sandwiched as it is between two huge and fabulously fabulous hotels where the rich and famous have gathered for more than a hundred years.  But, do stop, if only for a drink.



 Stepping under the canopied entryway, we head for the elegant bar. The bar of a restaurant adds to the atmosphere and offers a quiet place to sip and reflect on whether the waitress that just floated past with a full tray was also carrying food. 


Igor at work


The barman is smilingly attentive and builds drinks with a flourish, just as you like them.  No silly gimmicks of burning cinnamon sticks, or artificial syrups. 

 “Use Lillet instead of vermouth for my martini, please, with a twist of lemon.” Bond, James Bond...or rather Ian Fleming has taught me a thing or two.

“Of course, sir, and do you have a preferred gin?  If not, may I suggest a German gin?  Monkey 47.”  He knows every libation on his bottle-lined back counter. Igor is as smoothly efficient as an English butler.  Politely deferential without being obsequious.  You only need whisper your desires.  By the way, the martini is fabulous and that comes from a man who has been under the spell of Martinis in the very best of places. My companion has a delicious Moscow Mule, with just the right kick from freshly cut ginger root.

A few tidbits to nibble?  Of course.  Salted peanuts and flavored chips appear in dainty dishes.  “Just a moment,” Igor says, and returns with chunks of crusty Italian bread.  He comes around the bar and adds virgin olive oil, balsamic, Parmesan, and black pepper to our small plates.

We discover with our first sips that it is here we want to linger and dine.   We mention it to Igor. “Do you have reservations?” he asks.  We tell him, no.  “Just a moment,” he says and in a short while he has worked his magic and we’re escorted to our table.  We came at the right time.  When we first climbed onto bar stools, the restaurant was meagerly populated, but after being seated for dinner, the place fills up.  The hum of conversation and laughter float past.  Waiters and waitresses do a delicate ballet, avoiding each other and the crowd of patrons, while balancing full trays.

Ok, you say, but you come to a restaurant for food, right?  Correct.  And we are not disappointed.  Delighted in fact.  My date’s primavera salad with succulently grilled shrimp and my pasta with scampi quiets our conversation, even before the first bites.  Heavenly aromas envelope us.  The house white wine is sensationally smooth and fruity on the nose.  A meal to remember. I could not have done better!





 So, what is it that really makes Rizzi so special?  Easy.  The atmosphere is elegantly comfortable, the food delicious, but in the end, the whole dining experience is special because the staff made us as feel special as A-listers.


Salut! Prost! Cheers!  And if you get to Baden, drop in to Rizzi and say hello to Igor.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

In Baden Baden on the Lichtentaler Allee




Care to take a little stroll with me?  Such a beautiful day.  Perhaps a little juice of the grape before we stride?  Oh, I like your spirit, and I know just the place.  You say you require some discretion, querulous husband and all that?  A sheltered garden perhaps, out of view, where we can unburden ourselves and discard the cares and woe of nuptial complications?  Now you’re smiling.  Such a lovely smile, too.  I don’t know the man, but he really doesn’t deserve you.

Please, let’s sit a moment or two in this small hideaway, decked out in white café tables and chairs, blessed by the radiant sun.  There on the rolling hill! …see the pink and white blooms of a Japanese cherry?  Oh here comes a breath of wind, splattering the air with pink and white snow.  I do love the springtime.

Doesn’t this Riesling offer a beautiful nose.  Clean and refreshing.  Hints of rose, with a touch of apple and Mirabella plums. Rolls easily on the tongue.  And your tongue is so beautifully pink.  Now you’re blushing.  Blush all you want, my fair flower.  You’re laughing?  No, no, really.  You are enchanting.



Yes, the wine was delicious and the company even more so, but now let’s walk.  I’m so glad you decided to join me.  Have you been on the Lichtentaler Allee before?  If you’ve been to Baden-Baden you almost certainly have.  



Magnolia Galaxy
One of the most beautiful walks in the world, a combination of garden path, rippling river, and arboretum, with majestic mansions to the right and grand hotels to the left.




As you notice from the small nameplates, these trees are from all over the world, from slim and dainty Japanese Cherries, to voluptuous camellias and magnolias, to majestic redwoods and sequoia.

You’re walking in history. The Lichtentaler Allee  has been a place for walking and contemplation for over 360 years.  A few notes of interest.  The Allee began in 1655 as a simple path to connect the town of Baden with the Lichtentaler Cloister (1225).  Then came the Grand Duke’s castle gardener in 1839, who saw exquisite possibilities in the 2.3 kilometer (1.8 mile) trail along the river Oos (pronounced Ooze).  Suddenly a simple trail blossomed, literally, into a luxuriant profusion reminiscent of English parks and gardens.




Notice the many lacy footbridges, each of them different, all of them a paragon of graceful beauty, much as you are!





Look at that towering sequoia!  No doubt it will never feel the sharp bite of an axe. 


And the ducks and birds flutter about so shamelessly friendly.  Look, these mallards walk up to within inches of our feet.  And there, that multi-hued mandarin male, just skimming the water!  Flies like the wind!


Mandarin Ducks

Are you game for continuing all the way to the Cloister?  Yes, it’s still in use and inside the walls there is a small café.  I believe the nuns are Trappists, but on my visits I never met one, or if I did, she wasn’t wearing a habit.  The abbey advertises there are guest rooms and the abbess offers an invitation for guests to work and pray with the sisters.


The Cloister Entry

The courtyard

We’ll sit awhile at the café, then wander back for perhaps another wine before you rush back to your husband.  No rush?  Even better.  I’m almost sure we can find something else to do. 

Hahaha…it’s happened again!  Oh, I do love that blush!


Friday, April 8, 2016

Art, Pottery, Festivals, and Connections

  



I go to ceramic festivals for the art.  Last weekend, in a nearby German city, the fest of clay rambled through block after city block of bowls, cups, and other kiln fired implements. At least a hundred booths cluttered the streets, most of them manned by the artists themselves.  I love pottery and last Saturday I strolled in a paradise of design and ingenuity. Stroll with me for a few moments...





Ok, so maybe sloshing down some wine and biting into an aromatic bratwurst hot off the grill clouded the purity of my intentions just a tiny bit.  What the hell, ya gotta loosen up and free your mind.

By the second glass of wine, I start to get philosophical, so bear with me as I spew a mélange of random ideas.  Art connects us through a spider web of tiny threads that attach us to the reality of our existence.  Maybe I need to explain.




 Let’s start with painting.  Bursts of color across a canvas bring us a panorama of possibilities in other forms of art.  There are colors and designs for ceramics, soaring notes of classical music, sparky, yet mellow riffs of jazz, swirls of dancers, and the flowing prose of literature.  It’s all connected.  To paraphrase that noble writer, Ernest Hemingway, When I run out of inspiration, I go look at a few canvases.  You know Hemingway?  Larger than life and his cup of indulgences was as deep as a bucket.  He should have been a wee bit more forthcoming.  Before you write, first you have a couple of belts of Cuban rum, do a little fishing in the gulf, take in a few bullfights, and THEN go look at a few canvases.

Musical notes?


 Now let's look at music.  Much has been made of the connections between mathematics and music.  Ponder the question of why some music is more popular than others.  Could be explained by the artistic patterns of notes, as well as rhythms?  Are there mathematical equations that suggest why some music is popular and other music not so much?  Professor Jason Brown of Dalhousie University (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada) thinks so.  He’s a Beatles fan, as well as a mathematician and using math, he’s written a ‘new’ Beatles song with the numerical patterns found in original Beatles tunes.  As he says, math is essentially the search for patterns and, he continues, there are mathematical reasons that Beatles’ melodies and guitar chord sequences continue to resonance to the modern crowd over forty years after the group quit recording. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j28Lj5t_7Xo

Which leads to a bigger question:  Is pole dancing art?  I’m going to pass on that, Bob and move on to dutiful husband category for a thousand.



But the heart of this festival was ceramics.  I’ve often wondered about the links from painting to textiles, writing, music and dance.  All of those mediums offer free flowing, twisting hues that flood the mind with new possibilities.  I’m a potter myself and often look to textiles for inspirational texture, and lines of color. I also get ideas from painting, and the soft flow of jazz can get me in the mood to write… and other things.



And of course, sculpture is another art that connects.
 Clay is a malleable substance that lends itself to so many variations.  I find there are as many interpretations as there are ceramicists.  Clay also expresses nuances of customs, cultures, and even civilizations.  Japanese ceramics are distinct from those in Europe and both are vastly different from pots and cups found in Native American art. Even within Europe, it's easy to identify Spanish pottery from Italian, and Italian from German, or French.




 At this pottery fest, no two potters produced the same designs or styles. Just goes to show, once your mind is free to explore possibilities, your limits burst at the seams.  In booth after booth, I marveled at resemblances to swirls of dancers, streaked rainbows, and stark monochromatic designs, reflected in simple blacks and whites you find in photographs.  Black and white photographs inspire simplicity of line and nuances of shadow. 



“All of that on pottery?” you ask.  Definitely.  Few things express drama and mystery better than plain black, white and simple grays.  To take it a step farther, I believe movies lost something in the transition from black and white to Technicolor.





Pottery also connects us to cooking implements and the flower garden.  Just a quick scan of the photos in this blog and you’ll see what I mean.  Again I ask, what exactly is the connection of line and form amid ribbons and pools of color?  I think I know.  Art directly connects to all of nature and nature connects us all.


But, what the hell.  That’s enough thinking.  Need another cup of the grape?  I’m buying.  And the next time you hear about a pottery festival, go.  It’ll free your mind.