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Every day of the year, the moderately sized town of Homburg
Saar is hopping. Markets, fests,
rock n roll on Friday nights, jazz on Saturdays, and giant town square TV
screens blaring all the big sporting events. The town government knows that the key to keeping merchants
happy and the money flowing is to lure shoppers, music lovers, wine addicts,
sports enthusiasts, and the tired and hungry into the town center. The lures are many. I’ve barely
scratched the surface. Old,
classic car clubs hold rallies here.
Motorcycle clubs, too.
There’s a tiny cheese shop on a side street that surpasses most big food
chains. There’s Chili Coffee that
breaks out on the old market square and serves as a local hangout and superb
meeting point. Restaurants? Homburg’s got ‘ a profusion, and
especially of the Italian variety, but also fish, Spanish, brew-pubs, Chinese,
Asian fusion, etc.
The town’s many Italian restaurants sponsor an Italian Fest
each year. And, suddenly the new
market square comes alive with long, red and white tents, a raised stage the
size of most high school gyms, beer stands, balloon sellers, and the
tantalizing aromas of basil, garlic, and fresh, stone-oven pizza. The long tents are dotted with attractive
stand-up tables and the walls lined with restaurant booths serving your Italian
favorites, your Italian new favorites, and an almost bewildering array of wine
by the glass, bottle, and case.
You’ll see shrimp as big as bananas, desserts that stagger your taste
buds’ imagination, and pasta tossed in huge rounds of Parmesan that will make
you long for a bigger stomach.
Hey, you DO have a bigger stomach!
Diet starts tomorrow.
Meanwhile, slosh down some more wine! Order up! The
fest sprawls out onto side streets and down alleys.
The photos show a sparse crowd. That’s because I crept into the new market square
mid-morning. In the evenings of
this weeklong event, it’s shoulder to shoulder. But, as always, the crowds are friendly and forgiving of shoulder
bumping, hip bumping, and light toe stepping. They draw the line at groping and fondling. Wine spilling lingers in that gray
area.
We watched some magnificent opera one evening. The orchestra was a big one, forty to
fifty pieces, with a large string section. Three singers, one woman and two men, took turns belting out
the opera world’s favorite arias.
The crowd cheered, whistled and stamped its feet. Although my knowledge of opera extends
only to the brief, but poignant scenes from Cher and Nicolas Cage in
‘Moonstruck,’ after several flagons of wine, the Homburg highlights were some
of the most beautiful and inspiring music I have ever heard. I found my Italian surprisingly
improved and I could even sing along, or at least keep the beat with my tongue.
On another day, I listened to some Italian pop music, and on
the final morning, as you can see in the photo, an American Air Force combo
provided some vintage rock n roll.
Not all the music reached the pinnacles of rapture and in
brief moments I relearned a valuable lesson. In the dark of evening, my buddy and I strolled onto the
square, where on stage was an Italian pop band, with a male lead singer and a
gorgeous dark haired beauty supplying the doo-wahs. We ambled over.
I whispered to my buddy, “I want to get to know her and I want her to
follow me home.” As we got closer,
this gorgeous creature opened her mouth and out came the most discordant sounds
I’ve heard since the braying of my grandfather’s mule. Even a wailing guitar couldn’t silence
her and the drummer couldn’t beat it out of her.
My buddy asked if I were sure I wanted her to follow me
home. Visions of waking up and
hearing the croaking of the Wicked Witch of the West flitted across my mind,
along with waves of unmitigated nausea.
Then the band stopped playing and my former dream woman stepped off
stage and walked by. Stumbled by
was more like it. She had the
grace of a freelance bull, hired to wreck china shops. “Cancel that order, God! I really want
to go home to my loving wife!”
Once again, my prayers were answered and a sinner was saved.
But, enough about me.
Although I do hate to change the subject. Why so many Italian restaurants in a medium sized German
town? As a personal observation,
between when I lived in Germany in the early 80s and now, there have been
bursts of ethnic restaurants coming on the scene. Nothing new with that.
I can remember in the U.S. when you had to go to Texas or points west to
get Mexican food. Now Chinese,
Mexican, Thai, even Japanese are pervasive from the small town South to the
Midwest and beyond. Sushi is
openly and without shame now a part of the average college food court.
Back to the Italians in Germany and around the world. In the U.S. there are 18 million of
Italian extraction, but countries of South America have even more. Argentina citizenry is of predominately
Italian background, with over 25 million, or about 55% of the population. It’s the only country outside of Italy
that is mostly Italian. Brazil
also has about 25 million people with Italian DNA. The list goes on and on. As a matter of fact, there are about 130 million folks of
Italian lineage on earth. Only 60
and a half million of them live in Italy.
Germany has about 700,000 people of Italian ancestry and Switzerland
has 800,000. With the advent of
the European Union, of which Switzerland is not a part, people are free to
migrate and work wherever they wish, within the Union. Germany and Switzerland
are both prosperous and don’t forget Switzerland is tri-lingual, and Italian is
one of those languages.
People don’t migrate to less prosperity and Germany’s standard of living is high. Drive from Germany into France, or
Spain, or Italy and you’ll rapidly get a visual on ‘lower standard of
living.’ Doesn’t mean any of those
places are bad places to live, they’re just not great places if you’re starting
a business and looking for patrons who are wealthy enough to help you
grow. Germans have money. They spend it.
Those are generalizations. Specifics?
Germans who live in and near Homburg have money. They spend it. Lots of Italian restaurants and one of
the very best ethnic fests around is the weeklong Italian Fest in Homburg. Mark
your calendar for next year, and just remember that not everyone on stage is
cute or can sing. I shudder.
This sounds like a place i need to be!
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