Just Another Little Two Hour Lunch In the Alsace

I’m writing about Le Biblenhof , not because it’s special, which it is, but because it gives some idea of the perfection one can expect in the area of France known as The Alsace.  Wines galore, of course, but also dining at it’s best.  This special spot is located just 20 minutes east of Strasbourg, on Route des Vins d'Alsace, the Alsatian Wine Road.

But there's no real need to pick out a special, renowned restaurant, one that’s mentioned in all the guides, and spoken of in New York Times restaurant reviews.  In the Alsace, you can throw a dart at a map and hit a superb place for lunch or an evening of exuberant succulence.

Just to prove my point, about a year ago, a group of us darted here and there, looking at castles, sampling wine, and exploring.  Suddenly, a hunger came out of nowhere.  Only problem was, we hadn’t watched the clock and many French restaurants close for lunch around 2 p.m. and don’t open again until close to 6 p.m.

We drove through town after town.  Out of raw hunger and growing despair, we finally stopped at an unlikely spot in a small village.  From the outside, the place had all the allure of a Denny’s attached to a truck stop.  Inside, we were shocked to find semi-rowdy groups claiming most of the tables, sipping wine and downing some spectacular looking food.

As I often say, the French can teach anyone how to eat!  As a great friend of mine once said, when told by a physician “You need to change the way you eat.”

His reply, “We don’t eat, we dine!”  He could have been talking about the whole French nation.

I thought the Japanese were fanatics on freshness.  But, Nippon has nothing on France.  These folks don’t buy vegetables that aren’t stained with fresh dirt.  Cheeses don’t just vary by name and location, but also by use and age and an indelible sense of pairing.  And wine?  Every French person I’ve met can talk about a wine’s nuances with the very best oenologist.  They don’t eat, they dine!

Once again we found ourselves hungry in the Alsace.  Once again we picked a restaurant at random, but his one had the charm of a historic chateau.  Old stone walls lent a regal presence.  We would have gone inside anyway, just to satisfy our curiosity. But when we pulled into the parking lot at the restaurant and hotel Le Biblenhof, we fully expected a fine lunch.  We weren’t disappointed.

An Array of Tiny Breads

Even the sweet butter was special!

...as fragrant and elegant as a warm ceviche.

Roasted Sea Bass on a bed of diced root vegetables.

Veal-stuffed Cannelloni over stewed wild mushrooms.

To finish, coffee and a bit of sweets.

I love it when the wait staff is properly trained, holding their dignity and even a little Gallic charm as they offer suggestions and take your order.  I tried out my aging French, while the waiter, in black trousers and white, starched shirt, took our order and tried out his brand new Anglais.   We began with glasses of Crémont, the Alsatian version of Champagne.  Along with that came a picture perfect array of tiny breads, with sweet butter.  Next, compliments of the chef, a small goblet of fish and vegetables, in a spectacular fish broth.  This was truly worth a stop and I’m certain it will be again.  Vive la France!

I could write on and on, but the photos tell the whole story.  Bottom line: Just pick a restaurant.  You won’t be disappointed either.

http://www.lebiblenhof.fr/fr/