It’s always nice to have friends, and
not just when you need money or you’re your wife has thrown you out. They’re especially wonderful when they can
cook, and especially if they’ll teach you how.
Drinking you’ll have to learn on your own, although friends can be very
helpful there, too.
I don’t disparage anyone’s
cooking. Great Cuisines cover the
world. None of them bad, unless you
catch the Koreans on a night when they’ve run out of meat and you notice their
dog isn’t barking. Mexican menudo?…not a
fan.
The Europeans in general? Superb.
But, when it comes to the trifecta, drinking, eating, and partying, the Spanish take a backseat to nobody.
These folks can start in the late afternoon and finish up with supper at
midnight. Everyone know the prime
restaurant seating in Madrid is 10:30 p.m.?
Show up a couple of hours early and you’ll have the place to yourself.
Through my wife, I met a couple, he
American, and she Spanish. Pili gives cooking lessons, which may also be classed as party lessons, or drinking lessons. You gather hungry friends. You make sangria. You talk for hours and eat well, with discussions on anything that comes to mind after you've been hitting the sangria ... hard!
Lesson number one, Paella. But with a Spanish woman, cooking is never
just cooking. It’s about having a few
noshes to whet the appetite, washed down with wine, sangria, beer, whisky, or
anything else that’s wet. Then there’s
an hour or more of conversation, and discussions on the merits of various
foods, condiments, the prime importance of bread, and sentimental trips into
the childhoods of everyone present. The
lips must be lubricated, as well as the stomach.
Only Americans are willing to eat
without conversation and a migratory pilgrimage to the kitchen. For the Spanish
household, if you want to eat, these things are obligatory. Followed by
chopping, dicing, and more intense drinking, interspersed with bubbling
conversation and impromptu belly laughs.
Oh, yeah, also a few million instructions on creating Paella. Pili is an exacting cook, which is a major
reason why her paella is the stuff of hungry dreams.
If you’re not familiar with paella,
here’re some hints. Big, flat-bottomed
pan. Rice. Seafood. Chicken. Time.
Patience. If you don’t have the slow
moving P word in abundance, make another plan.
Above all, paella takes time and preparation.
Let’s cut to the historic
chase. The dish dates only from the mid
19th Century. Paella comes from several words in several languages,
all of them meaning pan. The typical
paella pan is round and flat-bottomed, with two-inch high sides that lean
outward, and support opposing handles. A
lot of non-Spaniards think of paella as Spain’s national dish, but a Spaniard
with tell you no, no, no (with a shake of the head and a wagging of the index
finger)…it is a regional dish, from the east coast, specifically the region
around the city of Valencia. Lots of
different types of paellas. Truth is,
you can put in any meat you want.
The Spaniards do.
You make paella in two parts, the
pan cooking part and the broth part. Then you combine them with a finishing
flourish and a swish of the spoon.
The
Recipe (for 6-8 people)
Part
I, initial cooking in the paella pan
Olive Oil (I use only Spanish olive
oil!)
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced.
1 small onion, diced
1 small green bell pepper diced
1 small red bell pepper, half of it
diced and half of it cut in medium strips
2 large chicken breasts (or 4
thighs) skinned, boned, and cut in bite sized pieces
2 calamari steaks, cut in strips
(easy to do with scissors)
2 medium tomatoes, peeled and diced
2 cups small grain rice (risotto
rice works well)
1 cup small scallops
18-24 shrimp (cleaned)
12 mussels ( An hour before cooking,
put them in cold, salty water. This will
wash out any grit. )
A handful of peas (not canned, but
frozen is ok)
1 lemon
Part
II, The Broth
2 cloves garlic, mashed in a mortar,
with salt and chopped parsley
4 cups fish or chicken broth
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon colorante (either adobo
or turmeric)
2 teaspoons chopped parsley (see
garlic above)
pinch of saffron
salt to taste (along the way, you will want to taste from
time to time to make sure the paella or the broth is not too salty)
Putting
it all together: (you’re going to be dancing back and forth from paella pan
to broth. Read carefully. Stick with it!)
1. Coat
the bottom of the paella pan with olive oil. Add the 3 sliced garlic cloves and the calamari. This is to flavor the oil.
2. Lower
the heat. This is where patience comes
in. Add onions, peppers and peas, along
with a bit of salt to help the vegetables sweat. Add the tomatoes. And stir
them in.
3. After a few minutes, take the garlic and calamari out and set aside. You’ll use them later.
As
the vegetables slowly cook, make the
broth in a separate saucepan. This
allows you to taste the broth and get the flavors and color perfect before you
add it to the paella pan. Pour the
fish/chicken broth into the saucepan and add the paprika, colorante, reserved
sliced garlic and mashed garlic, and a splash or two of either sherry or
brandy. This will help tenderize the
meat when the broth is added to the paella pan. Use a white spoon to stir and
you will be able to see that the broth is a rich yellow. If it’s too pale, add
more colorante. Cook the broth
separately for about 15 minutes to let the flavors meld.
4. Take
the strips of red bell pepper out of the paella pan. They will be used to
decorate the dish before serving. Add
the chicken pieces to the paella pan.
5. Do
not stir too much, only enough to turn the chicken. Don’t worry about the chicken being uncooked. The paella/chicken will continue to cook as
more ingredients are added.
6. Add
rice to the paella pan and stir. You
want the rice to get a nice coating of oil and vegetable juices before you add
the broth.
7. Add
the broth to the paella pan and stir quickly, then do not stir again.
8. Add
the prepped mussels to the paella pan. (Do not eat any mussels that have not
opened after they are cooked.) Cook for
15 to 20 minutes.
9. With
5 minutes to go, decoratively add the scallops and shrimp on top. Also add the reserved strips of red bell
pepper and reserved strips of calamari.
10. Taste to make sure the rice is cooked. When it is cooked to your liking, cut a lemon
decoratively and put the pieces on top of the paella. Cover the paella with foil and let it rest
for 10-15 minutes.
Remove the foil and serve the paella
in a burst of steamy goodness. Don’t
forget the bread, salad, water, and more wine!
Watch your greedy guests smile! Oh, well, they did bring the wine, right….I
mean, they did, didn’t they??
Next lesson: Tapas!
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