Back to Bari: La Tana del Polpo (The Octopus Lair)

La Tana del Polpo  (The Octopus Lair)

The best restaurant we visited in Bari, Italy, is on a narrow, cobblestoned back street. 

You would probably walk passed the plain and completely understated and yellowed signs on either side of  the old double doors, that announce:  La Tana del Polpo.  Trattoria di Mare.  Spaghetteria. Don’t think any of my three faithful and world-traveling readers need translations of the last two.

How in the world did we find this place?  It’s quite easy.  First you find a couple of English femmes, mother and daughter, who speak Italian.

No, they do not hang out on street corners, waiting to help the helpless.  You have to actually strike up a conversation and end up spending a pleasurable two days with them before they let you in on one of the best seafood restaurants in the ‘Seafood City’ of Bari, Italy.

The place was filled with natives, which is always a good sign.  And even with its humble location and atmosphere, the restaurant required reservations.  That’s also a good sign!

The place was packed! The waiters hustled!  The noise level was enhanced by the normal shrieky strain of Italian voices and waving of hands.

Speaking of Italian voices, have you ever heard two or three middle aged Italian men chatting, sitting at outdoor bar-tables on a narrow street, with high stone walls and excellent acoustics?  Sounds very much like the discussion will end with the forfeiture of a life or two.

The fast paced chat is actually:

-      This beer is so ordinary, I don’t think I can finish the whole six pack!

-      Giuseppe, when you say that, I know I have to guard my beer!

-      If a calf drank this, the poor little thing would think he suckled on the wrong nipple!

What it sounds like to the non-Italian to hear Italians practically screaming:

-      You mamma so big she needsa bench in the confessional!  Da priest smella her breath and say, Please don’ta bringa you dog in here!

-      Oh yeah? Two plus two in you house makes 1 ton.

-      I be kind and use a sharp knife to take you balls off!

-      Careful you don’t cut you sister’s face!

But, in La Tana del Pulpo, the conversation is more modulated, like a train coming through the station, but not blowing its whistle.  

The waiter approaches, passes out menus and asks if we want something to drink.  He was giving us the benefit of the doubt.  

“Wine and keep it flowing!”

 “So, you want a bottle?”

 “Yes!  And three glasses! And bubble water!”

“And la bella signora con gli occhiali e i capelli alla moda?”  (The beautiful lady with glasses and stylish hair?)

Yes, we were in Italy, where lucky-in-love is not a hope, but a mandate.

Soon splendid appetizers arrived, of which the octopus salad was the star of the show.  I’ve never cared much for octopus.  I’ll always eat some, but find other choices more appealing.  HOWEVER, we all tore into this vinegary-tender gift from the sea as if a farmer had called out, “Last one to the trough starves!”

Also, the razor thing salmon carpaccio, around chunks of tuna melted in our mouths.

How about the wine?  A superb regional wine from the Primitivo grape. Have you tried a Primitivo?  Some call it Zinfandel by another name.  Not so.  Maybe first cousins, but not at all the same.  To my taste buds, Primitivo carries a more lush flavor and a fruitier nose. In fact, if a bottle says Primitivo, I’m going to try it, even if the label doesn’t ring any chimes.

And the main course?  Spaghetti alle Vongole (Spaghetti with clams). Outstanding!  I ordered sole and have never had a better grilled fish! Lightly charred and ever so tender! A fresh slice of lemon squeezed over the fish....Mamma Mia!  

One of the more adventurous members of our newly formed clan, ordered spaghetti darkened with squid ink, and with chunks of fat shrimp in a wonderful cream sauce.

The food at La Tana del Polpo is so very good and fresh….as a matter of fact, a waiter brings out a platter of freshly caught fish for you to choose…    If  you not sure what you want, let the waiter make the choices, as he did for us with the octopus salad.  No matter what you order, it’s going to be superb.

Afterwards, the four of us wandered off for a nightcap, a fitting end to a day of adventure and an evening of fabulous seafood in a restaurant I would happily visit often!

Blossom Restaurant, in Charleston South Carolina

Charleston Marina

Charleston has grown into one of the best gastronomic destinations on the east coast.  I know there are doubters, but I’m used to it.  Hey, I’m married!

People from Baltimore will bring up blue crabs.  New Yorkers will scream….New Yorkers seem to favor screaming…Hey, buddy, we got every-ting heah.  Miami citizens like to tell the world about Cuban cuisine.

Yes, I’m going to tell you a great place to eat, but first there’s a necessary digression.  You need to know the city you’re dealing with.  Otherwise you’re just going to crawl away imagining four walls with food on the table.  See part of the master plan is to erase ignorance and I’m starting with you!

 

Live Oaks at The Battery, White Point Garden

Gotta admit, there are some lackings in Charleston choices.  Mexican comes to mind.  But, what Charleston does offer that’s so much more attractive than a sandy day at the beach, is sumptuous atmosphere to go along with the freshest of seafood. Stroll around this stately old town for a bit and you’ll get in the spirit.  See the craggy, gray bearded oaks, huge black cannon and grand, stately homes along The Battery. 

Confederate Rodman Cannon

Rainbow Row of Porgy and Bess fame is nearby.  Look out across the rippling confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, that come together to form the Atlantic Ocean.  Yep, that’s Fort Sumter in the distance, awash in the ocean tides and tide of history.

Rainbow Row

You catching the drift? When you eat in Charleston you’re flooded by atmosphere you’ll find nowhere else.  The salt air.  The cobblestone streets.  The horse drawn carriages. The old vegetable market and the ladies weaving sweetgrass baskets.

These cobblestones date from the days of sailing ships and were used for ballast 

So when my close friend said we would meet with some of his rowdy companions for lunch at Blossom, my mouth watered.  Blossom is a fairly new establishment near the marketplace.  In Charleston, new means the Civil War (War of Northern Aggression), or the Revolutionary War do not need to be mentioned as you ease from the heat into air conditioned comfort.

Bright.  Sunny as outside, but cooler.  The whitewashed, exposed beam interior gives you a sense of having lunch in an elegant flower garden.  Ditto the white cloth napkins, sparkling silverware and glistening white china.  Yes, I am a secret snob.  Some would say not so secret. Maybe it’s more accurate to say I find solace in colors and design and attention to detail.

“Ok!” you impatient bastards are screaming, “What about the flapping food?”

  

The flapping food is extraordinarily delicious, with a wonderful presentation and service that makes lunch a celebration of hunger!  Seafood is the main attraction and the freshness is mouthwatering.  Yes, for non-seafooder swine there are other choices.  Just want to sip wine and nosh a salad?  You’ve come to the right place.  The Riesling St Urbans-hof, direct from the Mosel River was fruitily fantastic.  Of course, both my faithful readers already know I favor Mosel wines for breakfast, lunch, dinner, as well as for brushing my teeth.

I ordered some fried clams and calamari, just to warm up my taste buds and followed that with a cup of creamy She Crab Soup.  Polished those off just as my Crab Louie Salad arrived. A companion went with Caeser Salad and blacked chicken, while another one fussed over a juicy cheeseburger and the fourth got a wedge of fresh lettuce with a creamy dressing.  But see, these folks live here and need a break from indescribably luscious seafood once in awhile. I do not need that break. I eschew that break.  I SAY….no I don’t say that.  I’m too polite.

She Crab Soup, a Charleston Speciality

Crab Louie Salad

Blackened Chicken Breast on Caesar Salad

A wedge of iceburg

As our waiter brought the platters, conversation stopped. Yes, I wanted another glass of wine and I got it.  No need to wander through descriptions of every bite. The dishes were….Just check  out the photos!  Thousands of mouthwatering words written all over them!

Conversation?  Didn’t start up again until our very efficient waiter removed the plates and brought the bills.

Will I go back to Blossom?  Stupid question.  Make that INSANE question.  I will go back and I will bring along my ravenous appetite.  Companions are optional.  More Riesling is not.

Scallop Chowder! Oh Yeah!

Wind and weather are getting a little nippy where you live?  No more playing tennis and golf in those fashionable, body hugging shorts and tank tops?  No more munching fresh salads and sipping chilled white wine in the bright summer sun, while soft breezes flow off the calm sea?

You guessed it.  Winter chill.  Sweater weather. It’s soup and stew time and I’m here to help.  How about a little of both?  Scallop Chowder.  Thicker than a soup, just a mite less substantial than stew.   However, when you taste this dish, stand by to down some whiskey from the ald coontry, and kiss yer chailín (ha-leen), which is Irish Gaelic for girlfriend.  But be careful, Irish Gaelic has something called the vocative case, which by inflection tells whether you’re speaking to someone or about someone.   I’ll leave that argument to you and your spouse.

As you may have guessed, this recipe has its roots in beer and whiskey and good times in Irish pubs.

So, let’s get on with it!  I’m feeling hungry, or as the Irish say it, Tá mé ag mothú ocras.  Well, the Irish may say it that way, but I can’t.

Scallop Chowder

3-4 Tablespoons butter

Just over a pound of FRESH scallops (quartered if you’re using the big ones! Don't discard the crescent shaped orange piece on the edge of the scallop.  It's delicious.)

1 Large onion chopped

2-3 celery stalks, diced (use the leaves too)

2 carrots diced (or use a handful of the baby carrots and chop them)

5-6 eggs sized potatoes, peeled and chopped (or use a couple of big potatoes)

4 sprigs of fresh thyme

A big fist full of fresh parsley, chopped

2 Cups milk, scalded (scalded = heated until almost boiling)

2 Cups vegetable or chicken stock (I use a carton of chicken stock, then add two more packets of dried chicken stock to make the stock richer.)

1 Can minced clams, juice and all (feel free to add any manner of assorted seafoods)

Squeeze of lemon juice

Salt and pepper

Melt the butter, add the scallops and cook until just changing color.  Remove from pan and add the vegetables. Season with salt and pepper, and cover.  Cook until the vegetables are barely soft.

Add the stock, thyme, and most of the parsley (save a little for serving) bring to a boil and cook until vegetables are soft.

Remove the thyme twigs, mash the vegetables a bit to thicken the liquid.  Add the scalded milk and the can of clams and the scallops.  Cook until heated through, but don’t let it boil!

Add more salt and pepper to taste and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Serve in bowls with a sprinkle of the remaining parsley

That’s it, ladies and gentlemen, a dhaoine uaisle!

Serve your delightful chowder with crusty bread…and maybe an Irish Stout or two?