La Tana del Polpo (The Octopus Lair)
The best restaurant we visited in Bari, Italy, is on a narrow, cobblestoned back street.
You would probably walk passed the plain and completely understated and yellowed signs on either side of the old double doors, that announce: La Tana del Polpo. Trattoria di Mare. Spaghetteria. Don’t think any of my three faithful and world-traveling readers need translations of the last two.
How in the world did we find this place? It’s quite easy. First you find a couple of English femmes, mother and daughter, who speak Italian.
No, they do not hang out on street corners, waiting to help the helpless. You have to actually strike up a conversation and end up spending a pleasurable two days with them before they let you in on one of the best seafood restaurants in the ‘Seafood City’ of Bari, Italy.
The place was filled with natives, which is always a good sign. And even with its humble location and atmosphere, the restaurant required reservations. That’s also a good sign!
The place was packed! The waiters hustled! The noise level was enhanced by the normal shrieky strain of Italian voices and waving of hands.
Speaking of Italian voices, have you ever heard two or three middle aged Italian men chatting, sitting at outdoor bar-tables on a narrow street, with high stone walls and excellent acoustics? Sounds very much like the discussion will end with the forfeiture of a life or two.
The fast paced chat is actually:
- This beer is so ordinary, I don’t think I can finish the whole six pack!
- Giuseppe, when you say that, I know I have to guard my beer!
- If a calf drank this, the poor little thing would think he suckled on the wrong nipple!
What it sounds like to the non-Italian to hear Italians practically screaming:
- You mamma so big she needsa bench in the confessional! Da priest smella her breath and say, Please don’ta bringa you dog in here!
- Oh yeah? Two plus two in you house makes 1 ton.
- I be kind and use a sharp knife to take you balls off!
- Careful you don’t cut you sister’s face!
But, in La Tana del Pulpo, the conversation is more modulated, like a train coming through the station, but not blowing its whistle.
The waiter approaches, passes out menus and asks if we want something to drink. He was giving us the benefit of the doubt.
“Wine and keep it flowing!”
“So, you want a bottle?”
“Yes! And three glasses! And bubble water!”
“And la bella signora con gli occhiali e i capelli alla moda?” (The beautiful lady with glasses and stylish hair?)
Yes, we were in Italy, where lucky-in-love is not a hope, but a mandate.
Soon splendid appetizers arrived, of which the octopus salad was the star of the show. I’ve never cared much for octopus. I’ll always eat some, but find other choices more appealing. HOWEVER, we all tore into this vinegary-tender gift from the sea as if a farmer had called out, “Last one to the trough starves!”
Also, the razor thing salmon carpaccio, around chunks of tuna melted in our mouths.
How about the wine? A superb regional wine from the Primitivo grape. Have you tried a Primitivo? Some call it Zinfandel by another name. Not so. Maybe first cousins, but not at all the same. To my taste buds, Primitivo carries a more lush flavor and a fruitier nose. In fact, if a bottle says Primitivo, I’m going to try it, even if the label doesn’t ring any chimes.
And the main course? Spaghetti alle Vongole (Spaghetti with clams). Outstanding! I ordered sole and have never had a better grilled fish! Lightly charred and ever so tender! A fresh slice of lemon squeezed over the fish....Mamma Mia!
One of the more adventurous members of our newly formed clan, ordered spaghetti darkened with squid ink, and with chunks of fat shrimp in a wonderful cream sauce.
The food at La Tana del Polpo is so very good and fresh….as a matter of fact, a waiter brings out a platter of freshly caught fish for you to choose… If you not sure what you want, let the waiter make the choices, as he did for us with the octopus salad. No matter what you order, it’s going to be superb.
Afterwards, the four of us wandered off for a nightcap, a fitting end to a day of adventure and an evening of fabulous seafood in a restaurant I would happily visit often!
