Monday, August 25, 2014

Well, Smack My Lips: Couple of Small Charmers in Charleston



When it comes to regional food, I thrive on Americana.  Off the beaten path.  Smaller the better.

Pop into a big name chain and grab something raised in Montana, processed in Chicago, shipped frozen to the distribution center in Southern California, and finally flipped on a bun in Rocky Junction?  Not this kid.  To paraphrase a long-time friend, why eat when you can dine.

Before you let the word ‘dine’ throw you for a loop, let me clarify.  I’m not talking about a place that can take your two-week paycheck in a single bite, or…on the other end of the spectrum…a greasy spoon adjacent to a major highway.

I’m talking about real Americana, a place highlighting simple dishes that take on complex flavors because somebody in the kitchen gives a damn, knows what they’re doing, and isn’t relying on speed and cheap meat to make a living.

How can you tell the good from the bad?  Small and slightly frayed at the edges.  Down a couple of little side streets.  Food so unexpectedly delicious and atmosphere so comfortably special, any little travel inconvenience makes no difference.  Ya, just gotta go there to scratch that itch.

I’ve found a couple of those in Charleston, SC.  Usually a line outside.  Normally, a mention in the newspaper or flyer that this wayside spot you’ve never heard of has won awards year after year.  Maybe a friend steers you in the right direction.  If he’s excited and presses you to let him join you, you’re onto something.

Moe’s Crosstown Tavern

Burgers and beer.  Find that anywhere, you say?  Not on your life.  Eight years running it’s won awards.  Why?  Things like a perfectly done burger, made with prime beef, slathered in melted blue cheese and dressed up with crisp lettuce, tomato, pickles, and a pile of home made onion rings?  If you’re not a burger fan, there’s plenty more to pick from.  And the beer on tap?  Some old favorites, but many are small town and haven’t made a name for themselves except among beer lovers.  Undecided?  Ask.  These folks know their beer.


You park down the street.  Amble into a small building that hasn’t had a facelift in awhile.  The Tavern is mildly dark, like a cloudy day in the evening.  Lots of dark wood.  Long, well worn, inviting bar.  But, you’re a party of four and op for a booth.  Your friends are telling…no begging you to order this and order that.



The waitress is patient.  You order an appealing beer, but it doesn’t do any good for me to slide the name past you.  Moe’s changes handcrafted beers with the tides.

The burger comes with fries, but of course your friends insist on an order of hand battered onion rings.  Yeah, well, force me.




The meal isn’t just filling, it’s everything a burger and fries should be, washed down with a dark brew that sails lightly on the tongue.

You walk away, wondering if anybody would object to coming back tomorrow…

I’m just sayin’, if you’ve ever in Charleston…

The Early Bird Diner



Sunday morning.  Yeah, you could just go home after church, or head to one of the many, jam-packed chains for breakfast.  Why in the world would you do that when The Early Bird Diner is right down the Savannah Highway?  Yep, it’s gonna be packed, but this small, eclectic touch of charm is worth the minor inconvenience of a wait.

Biscuits are delicious.  Fried chicken and waffles make your eyes dance and your stomach start to gallop.  Yes, that combination is THAT good.  Or, you can do what I did and settle for a low country favorite, shrimp and grits.  These shrimp and grits are anything but bland.  Dark red, rich gravy.  Creamy grits.  Fresh-off-the-boat shrimp cooked only until they are exactly done.  Succulent.





Want to try something simple and simply delicious?  Go for the grilled pimento cheese sandwich.  Crispy, crunchy, creamy.



Sorry, chain restaurants, but you’re never going to serve a breakfast this good.  Just ain’t gonna happen.  The Early Bird Dinner just may make you want to get to church more often.  Praise da Lawd and pass the biscuits.

Just a bit more about Charleston restaurants in general.  There was a time, when they were just ordinary.  No longer.  Charleston has developed into a foodie haven.  You can spend a little, or spend a lot, but wherever you dine, the bar has been raised.   I’m talkin’ “Look out New Orleans, Charleston is catching up.”

Moe’s and The Early Bird are leading the charge.






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