When it comes to regional
food, I thrive on Americana. Off the
beaten path. Smaller the better.
Pop into a big name chain and
grab something raised in Montana, processed in Chicago, shipped frozen to the
distribution center in Southern California, and finally flipped on a bun in
Rocky Junction? Not this kid. To paraphrase a long-time friend, why eat
when you can dine.
Before you let the word
‘dine’ throw you for a loop, let me clarify. I’m not talking about a place that can take your two-week paycheck in a single bite, or…on the other end of
the spectrum…a greasy spoon adjacent to a major highway.
I’m talking about real
Americana, a place highlighting simple dishes that take on complex flavors
because somebody in the kitchen gives a damn, knows what they’re doing, and
isn’t relying on speed and cheap meat to make a living.
How can you tell the good
from the bad? Small and slightly frayed
at the edges. Down a couple of little
side streets. Food so unexpectedly
delicious and atmosphere so comfortably special, any little travel
inconvenience makes no difference. Ya,
just gotta go there to scratch that itch.
I’ve found a couple of those
in Charleston, SC. Usually a line outside. Normally, a mention in the newspaper or flyer
that this wayside spot you’ve never heard of has won awards year after year. Maybe a friend steers you in the right
direction. If he’s excited and presses
you to let him join you, you’re onto something.
Moe’s Crosstown Tavern
Burgers and beer. Find that anywhere, you say? Not on your life. Eight years running it’s won awards. Why?
Things like a perfectly done burger, made with prime beef, slathered in melted
blue cheese and dressed up with crisp lettuce, tomato, pickles, and a pile of
home made onion rings? If you’re not a
burger fan, there’s plenty more to pick from.
And the beer on tap? Some old favorites, but many are small town and haven’t made a name for themselves except among beer lovers. Undecided?
Ask. These folks know their beer.
You park down the
street. Amble into a small building that
hasn’t had a facelift in awhile. The
Tavern is mildly dark, like a cloudy day in the evening. Lots of dark wood. Long, well worn, inviting bar. But, you’re a party of four and op for a
booth. Your friends are telling…no
begging you to order this and order that.
The waitress is patient. You order an appealing beer, but it doesn’t
do any good for me to slide the name past you.
Moe’s changes handcrafted beers with the tides.
The burger comes with fries,
but of course your friends insist on an order of hand battered onion
rings. Yeah, well, force me.
The meal isn’t just filling,
it’s everything a burger and fries should be, washed down with a dark brew that
sails lightly on the tongue.
You walk away, wondering if
anybody would object to coming back tomorrow…
I’m just sayin’, if you’ve
ever in Charleston…
The Early Bird Diner
Sunday morning. Yeah, you could just go home after church, or
head to one of the many, jam-packed chains for breakfast. Why in the world would you do that when The
Early Bird Diner is right down the Savannah Highway? Yep, it’s gonna be packed, but this small,
eclectic touch of charm is worth the minor inconvenience of a wait.
Biscuits are delicious. Fried chicken and waffles make your eyes
dance and your stomach start to gallop.
Yes, that combination is THAT good.
Or, you can do what I did and settle for a low country favorite, shrimp
and grits. These shrimp and grits are
anything but bland. Dark red, rich gravy. Creamy grits.
Fresh-off-the-boat shrimp cooked only until they are exactly done. Succulent.
Want to try something simple
and simply delicious? Go for the grilled
pimento cheese sandwich. Crispy,
crunchy, creamy.
Sorry, chain restaurants, but
you’re never going to serve a breakfast this good. Just ain’t gonna happen. The Early Bird Dinner just may make you want
to get to church more often. Praise da
Lawd and pass the biscuits.
Just a bit more about
Charleston restaurants in general. There
was a time, when they were just ordinary.
No longer. Charleston has
developed into a foodie haven. You can
spend a little, or spend a lot, but wherever you dine, the bar has been
raised. I’m talkin’ “Look out New
Orleans, Charleston is catching up.”
Moe’s and The Early Bird are
leading the charge.
No comments:
Post a Comment