Do you like Brit pubs as much as I do? Wait a sec…’like’ is too tame a
word…crave! The murmur of voices. Glistening pint glasses of dark amber. A row of hand pumps that tells you this is
the place for traditional ale. None of
that fizzy stuff for a true pub lover such as you and I. Did I speak too quickly? What?
You’ve never been inside a Brit pub???
Good god, man! Are you old enough
to drink? Have you completely missed the
sublime pleasure of relaxing in a pub, pint in hand, and your troubles floating
away like the evening mist?
You may have been listening to all those old saws about Brit
beer being warm, flat, et-freaking-cetera.
Ah, so that’s the problem.
Probably think the food is bad, too.
Wander with me inside a riverside pub in Dartmouth, Devon,
England. The Floating Bridge Inn. What’s
in a name? In this case, the name tells
you the pub is parked nearly on the riverbank, right beside the
Dartmouth-Kingswear Floating Dock, a vehicular cable ferry that crosses the
River Dart. Cars roll on and off all
day.
Let’s go inside the big white pub, which dates to the 19th Century, or on a sunny day we can
sit outside and soak up some vitamin D-3.
The bar area has a lighter touch than most, with a nautical
air. They serve DoomBar, a local brew
and one of my favorite Brit beers. But in this case, I didn’t come to The Floating Bridge for the
beer. Shocking, I know. But, their kitchen shines like a star in the
hungry night. And if you don’t fancy a
pint with your lunch or supper, they offer a superb wine selection.
Now to settle a few scores.
Brit beer is not served warm.
They keep the barrels in the cellar and hand pump it to your glass,
meaning it’s usually about 50-60ºF. The
beer is top fermented in the keg, meaning there’s only natural fermentation and
traditional ale is not fizzy. Lots of
flavor, much of which would be lost if the beer were to be served icy. Learn
all the details at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_in_England
I often say English beer is a different beverage from
American/German style, bottom fermented beer.
It’s almost like comparing tea and coffee.
Now that we’ve got that settled, let’s let our eyes wander
the menu and see what’s for supper.
Matter of fact, let’s make your mouth water: Belly Pork with mushrooms, in a brandy
cream. Mushroom, walnut, and goat cheese
tart on mixed leaves. Plowman’s with
English cheddar.
Pork Belly doesn’t sound appetizing? Boy, are you wrong! This is the most tender pork you’ve ever
eaten, with a thin layer of crisped fat riding on top. The sauce is out of this world and the dish
comes with creamy potatoes.
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| Pork Belly |
Never tasted anything to compare with the goat cheese
tart! Succulent flavors melded to
lip-smacking goodness. The combination is so perfect that you find yourself
mumbling about goat cheese and the soft, dark sauce that permeates the whole
dish.
And the plowman’s platter:
Traditionally served at midday, but equally grand in the evening. Lots
of subtleties on the tongue. Still, it has a texture similar to what you’re
used to. The flavor will make you tell
yourself, “Just one more bite,” right after you’ve already told yourself, “Just
one more bite.” Note the dark, pickle
relish, with its combination of sweet and tart.
Goes well with the cheese.
Notice that the English cheddar is not a bright yellow? That’s because the Brits don’t add coloring
to their naturally aged cheddar. Has a
mellow, more rounded, less industrial flavor than it’s U.S. cousin.
No need to stop here.
Might as well have dessert. Try
the crusty bread pudding with a scoop of the famous Devon clotted cream. Or perhaps some apple crumble, with vanilla
cream sauce. Either way, you can’t go
wrong and either way, you’re going to need a long, postprandial
perambulation. Been waiting a long time
to use those words, meaning an after supper walk!
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| Apple Crumble with Vanilla Cream |
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| Bread Pudding and Clotted Cream |
And, what a walk it will be in the fading sunlight, along
the waterfront, with boats of every description floating on their idle
reflections in the River Dart.
Visit The Floating
Bridge Inn once and you’ll come back, for excellent beer in the bright
sunshine, or a tidy supper in the lull of the evening.
