German Faces in Market Places. Part I

German Faces in Market Places

‘Tis the season for Christmas Markets, or as the Germans call them, Weihnachtsmarkt (pronounced Vile-knocks-marked), or Christkindlmarkt (Chris-kindle-marked). Lots of food, some kids rides, gift kiosks, artisans at work, and steaming mugs of mulled wine, Glühwein, (Glue-vine).  I think of Glühweinas a German version of warm sangria.

Want to make your own? Sure you do.  Nothing better to get you in the holiday mood and bring out the German in you!  Here’s an easy recipe:

1 Bottle dry red wine (or a white wine!)

1 Orange cut in slices (or lemon or mix and match)

2 Sticks of cinnamon

2-3 heaping Tablespoons sugar

3 Cloves

1 Cardamom pod, or to taste

 Optional: A slosh or two of your favorite whiskey or rum or brandy

Another option: a splash of vanilla.

Heat the wine until it’s very warm, but not so hot that the alcohol evaporates.  Remove the wine from the heat and add everything else; cover the pot and let it steep for an hour.  After an hour, remove the solids and add the rum or brandy if desired (Yes, I do desire).  Add more sugar if you must, but the German version is just sweet enough to soften the flavor.

So you’ve got your mug of Glühwein to warm your innards and lift your spirits. Now it’s time to stroll and check out the bundled-up people swirling around you and stop to chat with vendors. Don’t speak German? No fear. They’re here to sell some truly beautiful crafts and will greet you with smiles and speak any European language you can imagine, including English, accompanied by hand gestures, and pats on the back and more smiles.

As for me, I’m all about the people and on these Christmas Market visits, I concentrate on faces. Unlike the U.S. when anybody with a camera is a bit suspect and subject to arrest, the Germans don’t seem to mind a click here and there.

For portraits, even long distance portraits, I prefer shots in black and white.  More drama, more concentration of features.  Got a few blurry ones?  Hey, they can be interesting, too and after a few Glühweins…..

Here are some photos of the vendors to show you what I mean:  German faces at a couple of  Weihnachtsmarkts.  In Part II, I'll show you some of the crowd.

Wait a sec! Before you view these masterpieces, grab another mug of Glühwein!  You may also want to grab a Brat or a Schnitzel and have Oh Tannenbaum playing gently in the background.  By the way, Tannenbaum means Christmas tree, but the Germans also say Weihnachtsbaum. 

I say, Prost!

A Small Glimpse of German Christmas Cheer!

This is the time for Christkindlmarkts.  Yep, in Germany the Christmas markets are in full swing across  the land.  Sure, you’ve heard of the big ones in Berlin and München, and so forth, but you don’t have to wander far to find smaller versions.  In my opinion, sometimes smaller is better.  No huge crowds.  No long lines for eating and drinking…essen und trinken.

The market in the photos took place a couple of weeks ago in a nearby city.  What do you think of when you think of Christmas markets?  Things to buy and eat?  Christmas ornaments?  Well, there’s all that, of course, but even more, a German Christkindlmarkt is a place for friends to gather for steaming cups of tea with rum, or mugs of Glühwein, that spiced and sugared red wine concoction.  Local bands play Christmas music.  The aroma of roasting meats fills the frosty air.

Choirs of school children, bundled up and showing off their weeks of practice, belt out choruses of traditional hymns and Santa Claus classics.  By the way, here are a couple of ‘Did you know?’ items.

Over here, Santa Claus is St. Nicolas and he delivers small gifts to children on St Nicolas Day, 6 December.  Family members exchange gifts on Christmas Eve.

Do the early Christmas markets make a little more sense now?  Another thing to factor in is that Advent (the four Sundays leading up to Christmas Day) is a big part of the holiday season, so celebrations begin about 1 December and go through to the 25^th.  Advent means ‘coming’ in Latin, the season leading up to the coming of Jesus.

In Germany, at least for the present, Christmas is a religious time.  But, that doesn’t mean there are no Christmas trees!  There are plenty and the custom dates back to the middle ages.  Parents traditionally decorate the trees in secret.

There’s the German Christmas season in a nutshell.  Go out with friends and family and find a Christkindlmarkt, large or small.  It’s a social season!  Sip that tea and rum, or glug that Glühwein!  And, as they say in Germany…  Frohe Weihnachten!!!  Happy Christmas!!!

Saarbrücken Christmas Market by the Castle

Lots of Christmas markets (Weihachtsmarkt) this time of year.  Some last more than a month, others just a few days.  Look around.  You’ll find plenty, big and small, sometimes more than one in the same city.

Here’s a partial list for Rheinland Platz http://www.weihnachtsmarkt-deutschland.de/rheinland-pfalz.html Click on the brown lettering to get the dates for a specific market

And another partial list for Saarland: http://www.weihnachtsmarkt-deutschland.de/saarland.html

Click on the red lettering to get the dates for a specific market.

Weihnachtsmarkt is pronounced Vie-knocks-marked, but in English or German, it’s a wonderful tradition for the holiday season.

 

Unlike the United States, where anything suggesting religion is carefully scrutinized before being beheaded, the Germans are unabashedly fond of Christmas and its many celebratory reincarnations.  Nativity scenes are shamelessly displayed.  Join in the fun, or embrace The Grinch.

Remember, this is Germany.  No matter the occasion, the waft of roasting meats and baking bread lusciously fills the air.  Beer and wine flow freely and the click of heavy mugs lets you know you’re in the right place.  My kind of Christmas celebration.  Vendors line the streets.  Artisans display their wares, with everything from intricate tree ornaments to handsomely carved furniture, olive wood kitchen implements, homemade chocolates, and a thousand other things that suddenly look like a fabulous way to spend money and keep the snarling relatives at bay.

 

Roasting Chestnuts

Castle is in the far background

In the city of Saarbrücken (Bridge over the Saar River) you have a bunch of choices.  We picked the Weihnachtsmarkt in the plaza of the Saarbrücken Castle.  Is the castle historic?  Yes and no.  Lots of castles on this site, dating back to around 1000 A.D.  Dukes, Duchesses, wars, revolutions saw so many deconstructions and reconstructions that the history is difficult to follow.  The current buildings got a facelift and architectural changes in the late 20^th Century and are used as offices by the Saarland government.  Still, they stand straight, white, and with a certain majesty.  The cobblestones are a nice touch and it’s the perfect place for a market, which also wanders down the surrounding streets.

But, no matter which Weihnachtsmarkt I pick, I always find something different, something that strikes me as “Hey, never thought of that.”  In some cases I’m pleased that I never thought of that, but often I’m surprised.  

This time it was hot beer.  Glühbier, it’s called.  The thoughtful folks who provided this warmth on a chilly day in Saarbrücken were Belgian as was the Glühbier.

The beer comes out steaming!

Most of us have sampled Glühwein.  Wine with spices, and sugared, then heated.  You can also get it with a shot of this or that, which is always a good idea, but only if you’ve found another driver for the sleigh.   Even with more alcoholic infusions, I can only take one mug of Glühwein.  A bit sweet for my taste.  But, it does get better with age, so wait five minutes, then have another.

Glühbier is a different beast.  You may think fruit flavored beer is sweet.  Not if it’s Belgian.  They add the fruit flavoring before fermentation, so the sugar from the fruit morphs into real beer, with a fruit flavor.  Heat the fruit beer up and you’ve got Glühbier.  First time I tried it, I was ready for another.  Instantly addictive.  A side effect is that suddenly your other hand feels empty without a Brat.  Easily remedied.

Glühbier!  Succulent, with just a bare bite of bitterness.

One thing I really enjoy about a German Weihnachtsmarkt is the attitude of the people.  Happy.  Smiling.  Hail fellow well met!  You well may wonder about the origin of that greeting from medieval times.  Well, join me for a Glühbier, grab a Wurst and let’s talk about it…

Christmas Market, Christkindlmarkt, Weihnachtsmarkt

Christmas Cheer!

Christkindlmarket means Christ Child Market.  Weihnachtsmarkt means Christmas Night Market.  Whatever title you choose, they all mean bright lights, Glühwein, wurst, potatoes, and lots of little thingies to stick on and under your Christmas tree.

What is Glühwein anyway?  In English speaking countries we call it mulled wine.  In German, glüh means glow and you only need a sip to understand the name.  Usually made with red wine and served hot and redolent with spices, you can get it with or without a shot of schnapps or rum.  Either way, the glow translates with ease and on a chilly, red-nose-day, there’s nothing like it.

The recipe is simple and here’s a site for a good one: http://www.food.com/recipe/gluhwein-81041

Almost every German town, from the smallest to the teeming metropolises has a Christmas market.  Depending on the location, they run from late November to late December and sometimes even into early January. The tradition goes way, way back.  Matter of fact, the one in Vienna dates to the 13^th Century.

If you’ve seen one, you’ve seen ‘em all, right?  Not quite.  Different parts of Germany and Austria have different food specialties and the vendors differ everywhere you go.  Woodcarvers come out of the woodwork to sell their wares.  Fanciful Christmas lights wait for you to take them home.  Steam comes off the grills as a chef rakes at the roasting potatoes and grilled meats.

Personally, I like the big markets in the big cities.  They’re spread out and aglow with never ending lights.  Besides the lighted booths, you see gigantic ornaments the size of houses.  In the bigger markets, the stores stay open at night.  Sometimes an ice rink beckons.

A Christmas market is a happy place, as well it should be this time of year.  Once you start, you won’t want to go to just one!

Pork steak with bacon and onion potatoes