Saturday in Da Burg: Homburg!

Saturday in Da Burg

Haven’t been to Germany?  Having a tough time wondering what it’s like to live here?  I know you’re curious.  You’ve heard rumors from your beastly, so-called friends. The winter weather is awful, right? Germans aren’t friendly.  If it’s not snowing, it’s raining, right? So if you have to live here, what in the world is there to do as you ponder your Saturday?

Oh, nothing really.  Go to a very cool town for the big flea market, or perhaps a wine fest, or a Christmas market, or find a delicious German restaurant with atmosphere to spare.  Of course, you must begin with coffee and a fresh roll at the German bakery that’s down the street.  Imperative and essential for a bright outlook, even if it’s raining, which it was.  No matter. Drizzle fizzle.  Pull up the hood and march on.   We know every bakery clerk and they waved to us and called us by name as we walked through the automatic, sliding glass doors and got hit with a burst of the intoxicating aroma of fresh bread.  We answered them by name and sat down because we’re creatures of habit and the clerks know what we want.  The bakery was warm and comfortable, but after a coffee and roll warm up, we were ready to make the short drive to Homburg.

Amazing how many vendors showed up at the flea market, from Germany and France.  Homburg is a lively town and sports the biggest and best flea market (Floh Markt) in southwest Germany.  Happens the first Saturday of every month, from 0800 to 1600.  Yeah, yeah, subtract 12 hours from the latter.  Get used to it if you take trains in Europe.

But, we weren’t taking a train.  Just driving a couple of towns away and singing in the rain.  Very light drizzle that stopped periodically. Wasn’t that bad.  Vendors know better than weathermen when it’s going to be bad.

Unlike so many flea markets in the U.S., the Homburg flea market is stuffed with antiques and semi-antiques, most of which are at used furniture prices.  Interesting stuff. No dross. Can you bargain?  Foolish man, of course you can.  But, these vendors know the going price of everything and their wares are already cheap.  Check out the photos.  One thing the guys will want to know: Yes there is German World War II paraphernalia, but the crooked cross is always covered up.  It’s the law.  There were no coffee stands and no luscious aromas of grilling meats and sausages Saturday.  The antique vendors know the weather better than the food vendors.

Afterwards, we shopped for flowers and you can see what we got for less than ten bucks.  Brightens up the house, refreshes the spirit and all those other touchy-feely things.  Freshly cut flowers are my fav substitute sunshine, especially in Germany in the wintertime.  We did see the sun once…think it was last week.

Next stop, a wonderfully traditional German beer house and restaurant.  Big steins of beer if you want one, but I opt for a glass of Grauer Burgunder from the Nahe River area.  In Italy it’s called Pinot Grigio and in France Pinot Gris.  English?  Gray Pinot. Light. Dry, Fruity nose.  

But, I ordered a meat plate, a Grill Teller.  What’s with that? White wine with meat? Yes, well two of the meats were pork and turkey.  The Germans eat a lot of turkey, called Puten.  Don't’ eat pork or beef?  No problem in Germany. Don’t drink wine or beer? How ‘bout water or fruit juice?

Germans are known for huge portions and the Grill Teller was no exception.  Should have shared and fought over the scraps.

We lingered over the wine and looked out the window at folks bundled up for the rainy day.  Rain and even snow doesn’t stop these hearty folk.  I’ve seen people in their eighties with their walkers, trudging through six inches of snow.

So, what’s there to do on just another rainy day in Germany?  Gosh, let me think…and while I’m thinking, let’s have another glass of wine.

Homburger hof

In the courtyard

Typical German reads atypical menu

Alt Bier - hummmmm

Beauty is in the details

Homburger hof is dog friendly.  They even provide a water bowl

Mixed grill, with potatoes and herbed butter

Rump steak, smothered in onions and gravy, with bratkartoffeln

Schnitzel and fries

Scharf Käse - mixed vegetables, cheese, and hot peppers

Rondell 3  66424 Homburg, Germany

06841

Tele:  +49 6841 8090802

www.homburger-wirtshaus.de/

One of the first things you learn about Homburg Saar (pronounced Home-berk and not to be confused with Hamburg, in the far north) is that the Homburger hof is the only restaurant whose hours are dependable.  1000 to 0100 daily.  Period.  None of these closing at 1400, or not open on Wednesdays annoyances.  And yes, they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  Der hof is also the biggest building in town, so it’s tough to miss.  By the way, hof often means courtyard and I guess the crowded tables out in front count.

For the past few decades, it’s been owned by the Karlsberg Brewery, also located in Homburg.  But, that’s not the beginning of the story.  The building was completed in 1907 and has been a military headquarters and a hotel before the brewery bought it and made it a restaurant.

Ok. Ok.  All of that is fabulously interesting, but is it any good?  I like it!  When someone even whispers about going there, I come running.  Karlsberg beer is some of the best around, especially the Alt Bier, or beer brewed in the old style, with the fermenting yeast forming on top of the wort (wheat or barley mash).  What about top-fermenting yeast?  Less fizz.  Usually alt bier runs from 4.8 to 6% alcohol and for my money is smooth as glass.  The Karlsberg variety is at the low end of the scale. Reminds me of English ale, also made with top-fermenting yeast.  The color varies, but is predominantly a deep mahogany.  If you think all dark beer is a little bit harsh and rough around the edges, alt bier will teach your taste buds a new lesson.

What about the food?  Earthy and delicious.  There’s nothing startling on the newspaper menu, but you can order without fear.  Traditional and dependable.  I love the salads, the schnitzel, and the rump steak smothered in onions and dark gravy.  The bratkatoffeln (pan cooked potatoes) are not to be missed.

You said ‘newspaper’ menu?  Yep.  Looks like a newspaper.  Reads like a newspaper, with specials replacing the normal newspaper ads.  Speaking of specials, there’s a different one each day of the week, which gives you a price-break of a couple of euros.  But, even without the price-break, the Homburger hof won’t shred your budget.

When you go to the Homburger hof website, check out their recipes, most of which feature beer, including three types of beer soup!

Now you’ve done it.  A heavy thirst is rising like a tsunami. Time to kiss off the errands, bundle the wife into the car, and chill in the hof and people watch, while the alt bier does its magical, psychological work.  If you can't drink a beer right now, just keep repeating this mantra:  I don't need a beer to be happy...I don't need.....