The Vikings in Britain, Part II

The Vikings in Britain, Part II

866 marks a year of change from raiding to settling. Danes and Norwegians were the most purposeful raiders and in the next hundred years, they established cities, including what we now call York, and with the help of their allies, mainly Saxon tribes, they built kingdoms.  Raiding declined.  Not profitable to raid the neighborhood if it’s already your neighborhood.

England became somewhat united under joint rule of Norse and Anglo-Saxon Kings.  However, under the weakness of English kings (I promised to keep this short, so I won’t name all the kings and battles, such as Edward the Martyr and Ætheired the Unready – yes those names are real) the Vikings began raiding again.  In 1002, Ætheired had had enough of the Danes raiding and ravaging and proclaimed that all Danes living in England would be executed.  This became known as The Saint Brice’s Day Massacre.   As you might guess, the Danes took this very unkindly and eventually the Danish King Cnut became King of England.

The Viking Farewell 1066

1066 is one of the most famous dates in British history.  The Norman king, William the Conqueror, invaded Britain’s southern coast and won the famous Battle of Hastings.  The Viking age was rapidly coming to an end, but it's also startling to discover that William himself was descended from Viking invaders.

A small portion of the Bayeux Tapestry, a woven history of the Battle of Hastings, still found in Bayeux, Normandy, France

The Vikings played a very important role in William the Conqueror’s victory.  How so?  In the north of England, King Harold Hardrata of Norway and his English ally defeated the Anglo-Saxon forces.  England’s King Harold II raced his army north and repelled the Norwegian invasion.  

Danish King Cnut

English King Harold II

Unfortunately, when Harold raced back to the south coast, he was outmanned and outgunned…..no they didn’t have guns, but I love that phrase.  Harold II died at the Battle of Hastings and a Norman, best known as William the Conqueror, established himself on the English throne.  In the next installment, we’ll see what having a Norman (French) meant to English history.

William the Conqueror 

More about the Vikings.

Here’s a headline, literally.  The Vikings did not wear helmets with horns on top.  That part of Viking dress was invented by the German composer Richard Wagner in the mid 19^th Century.  According to what I’ve read, only one authentic Viking helmet has been uncovered and it was iron and leather.

What did they wear?  Lots of animals skins.  But, there were differences based on wealth.  The more affluent wore linen and even silk from Asia. The rich may have had larger farms and slaves to work the land and grow the flax (linen).  The poorer folks didn’t wear silk and probably more wool than linen, sheep being much easier to raise. Women and men wore wool and linen, but the women’s wear was wrapped cloth, often with a couple of layers, and held up with broaches and such.

So, what is a kirtle?  A kirtle was a long shirt the men wore that often went down to the knees.  The Viking man in the drawing above is wearing a kirtle.

How big were the Vikings?  I always pictured them as 6 feet four inches, with broad shoulders.  In fact, after examining skeletal remains across Scandinavia, archeologists say the Viking men were about 5 feet 7 3/4 inches tall.  The women were about 5 feet 2 ½ inches.

How about warfare?  What did the men wear?  Some wore chainmail and helmets, with heavy leather vests, or metal, overlapping plates.  They carried axes and broad swords.

Evidence of the Vikings in England.  Archeologists have a difficult time because the Viking settlers lived much as their Anglo-Saxon neighbors did.  Tough to distinguish one house from another, although in rare cases it has been done.

The Vikings fought and ruled and conquered in Britain for about 300 years.  But, they didn’t totally disappear. In some cities, especially in the far north and into Scotland, the people still celebrate their Viking heritage.

The Vikings in Britain, Part I

Taken from an Ad for an event at the Chesterfield Museum, Britain, on 23 Mar 2018

The Vikings in Britain, Part I

793 A.D. – 1066 A.D.

By 793….wait a sec, this already sounds like a history lesson….so let’s take the macro view and call the start of the Viking era the late eighth century, when Britain was first raided by the Vikings, also known by the names Norse, or Northmen. Matter of fact, there’s no way to tell when the first raid occurred, but the first recorded raid was on the island monastery of Lindisfarne, in 793.  Monks were killed outright, or tossed in the sea to drown, or carried off as slaves.  It was a taste of things to come.

Let’s start there and get you ready for cocktail conversation.  But, hey, the Vikings were tough, independent dudes, so you may be ready for a biker bar, too.  To warn you, as I always do, my Viking Tale of Britain is like the tales of Britain before it.  I am not a scholar, so your professor may well call me out on various points, but I’m not out to get you ready for your PhD oral presentation, only trying to give you a few icebreakers and get someone to buy the next round.

Economics:  So much of this societal world is based on economics and the Vikings were no different.  Ponder for a moment, if you will, that everything in human existence is tied to economics.  Economics are not just charts and graphs, but determine your choices about whom you marry and when you marry, how many kids you choose to have, what kind of car you drive and even your choices in the super market.

But, even before we start on the Vikings, we need to know what happened in the almost 300 years between when the Romans pulled out of Britain and the Vikings began raiding.  The Roman auxiliaries, mercenaries recruited from mostly Germanic tribes decided to stay. Even before the Romans hit the trail, mercenaries rebelled after not being paid.  Yes, even loyalty has an economic component.  Eventually other Germanic tribes migrated into Britain.  Native Britons, the Germanic Angles and Saxons fought it out.  The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle  (which has it’s doubters) describes how various Anglo-Saxon kingdoms merged to form England.  But, monks evidently took centuries to write about it and also took great liberties in adding and subtracting events to suit their purposes and no doubt under the watchful eyes of their superiors. Let’s settle for Romans followed by Anglo-Saxons and move onto the wooly men (and women) from the north.

As you’ve already guessed, the Vikings came from Scandinavia, possibly all over Scandinavia, but in great part Norway and Denmark. They raided and traded not only in Britain, but all across Europe and even as far away as modern day Turkey, all for economic reasons.

Viking, taken from the Norse word, Vikingr, meaning pirate or raider.  Very few of the Norsemen were raiders. Raider was a part-time job for mostly younger men.  Grab some land, or bring back riches, get yourself ready to go into farming or becoming a merchant.  It took expensive boats to traipse around the oceans and don’t forget, these raiders didn’t limit themselves to Britain.  They went wherever they felt the urge, wherever they might profit, but the folks who put up the money for these raids surely had some say.   

Very independent lads, these raiders.  The story goes that when Vikings went to what is now France, they were met by a peaceful emissary who asked them to take him to their leader.  They told him, We are all leaders here.   Great warriors.  Yes. Great army?  Not so much.  Good for popping off undefended monasteries and unsuspecting towns and villages. 

As, I intimated, the Viking raiders were heavily armed, but not that well organized.  “Get your ass off the boat, charge out there and kill somebody!  Hey, Johansson, don’t forget your sword! And bring back a few slaves!”  The lack of military organization would be their downfall.

Remains of the Monastery at Lindisfare

Raiding took place all over Britain, but especially on the coasts and in Scotland.  As in the case of Lindisfare before it, sometimes the raids were quite bloody, such as the raid at Iona in 802 A.D. when 68 monks were slain.  Lots of pillaging and rape and the taking of slaves. 

An Irish source tells of an Irishman, Murchad, who was taken as a slave by the Vikings and sold to a nunnery in Northumbia (Just south of Scotland). After leading all the nuns astray, he was retaken by the Vikings and sold to a widow in Saxony.  Yep, he seduced her too!  After many more adventures, he made his way back to his home in Ireland.

So were the raiders all nasty brutes, intent on murder and mayhem?  Yes and no. For one thing, raiders carried their wives with them. It’s said that up to 50% of raiders were women.  And everywhere the raiders went, they picked up customs of the locals and often settled down to establish farming societies of their own.  But, they did have a take-no-prisoners approach to nation building.  Part of this attitude was a sign of the times and the places they raided.  Monasteries were unarmed and undefended, places of quiet reflection. The Vikings attacked a lot of them.  Bad press.  Especially when the only people who could supply a written record of what happened were monks who suddenly had big time grudges.  In this case it wasn’t the winners who wrote the history.

Waterford Ain't Just Crystal

Reginald's Tower. Named for, (Irish-Viking) ruler of the city Ragnall MacGillemaire

Inside the tower. 

Waterford, Ireland.  What's the first thing you think of?  If you even mention 'World famous crystal,' you're too far into your feminine side, unless you're a woman.  Then you're right in the doe-eyed, credit card zone. 

When a man’s man, the kind of guy who can swill a beer and belch out the flame of a candle twenty feet away, thinks of Ireland, two things cross his Cro-Magnon  mind:  Guinness and whiskey.  Ok, maybe a third thing, but since your wife is looking over your shoulder, we won’t mention the gorgeous redheads, the statuesque figures, the looks you know in your heart are only meant for you.

No, instead, let’s concentrate on marauding, plundering, gleaming swords, battles, and other precursors to football and golf.

Ok, take a thought mulligan.  What’s the first thing you think of in Waterford?  Vikings!  Yes!  Those masters of the longboat, explorers extraordinaire, feared by conquered men, adored by conquered women…. those tall, blond guys, festooned in animal skins, horned helmets, and waving heavy swords.  They founded Waterford.  Pretty big settlement in the 900’s.  Still is.  They built their city in a large triangle at the water’s edge, surrounded by a timbered wall.  Today’s the area is still known as The Viking Triangle and encompasses much of the old city.

You won’t visit Waterford without hearing of The Viking Triangle, but let’s add some names to get your visit in gear:  Reginald’s Tower, The Bishop’s Palace, The Waterford Museum of Treasures, and of course the Waterford Crystal Factory.   The good news is all four are only a block or two apart. Tours are offered at all four places. Better news:  pubs are also an easy walk.  

Keep in mind, those are only the big four.  Lots of other olden things to see if you're in town for a few days.  From the shoreline, to the harbor, to the old churches and monasteries, Ireland's second largest city will keep you entertained.

Statue of Luke Wadding, outside Greyfriars monastery.  He's the chap who got the pope to make St Patrick's Day a feast day.  Hey, we can all drink to that!

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity.  Seems kinda plain for a Catholic church.  When they built it, the Catholics had to keep it simple of avoid offending the Protestants.

The only real question is, how long can you can stare at relics before a desperate need for a pint of Guinness or a drop of Ireland’s finest whiskey grabs you in a vice-like grip and forces you into a pub. I give you two hours, max.

But onward to the treasures of Waterford.

Reginald’s Tower is at the point of The Viking Triangle closest to the water’s edge.  The Vikings built it of wood, but over the centuries, pockmarked by wars and rebuilt by various owners, original wood morphed to stone.  Along the way, the tower’s been a jail, a mint, a castle, and now a museum.  The tour guide waxes well about the history, as well as the civil and hygienic conditions on the long road from then to today.  It’s said that the tower is the oldest standing building in Ireland.

Down the street is The Bishop’s Palace.  If the tower sings of the Vikings, The Bishop’s Palace gets you into the middle 1700s.  Reinactors guide you room to room through the foibles of yesteryear.  Lots of original furnishings and you can see one of the earliest examples of Waterford Crystal.

Inside the Bishop's Palace

 

Oldest Waterford crystal in the world.

To the side of The Bishop’s Palace stands The Waterford Museum of Treasures, which will lead you through 1000 years of fascinating history.  Wars, the Church, Kings, and knaves all intertwine.  If you want to know about medieval Waterford, this is the place.  Far from dusty and boring, this museum first opened in 1999 and is first class.  Bright.  Airy.  Well presented. Great coffee shop. You will especially want to view the gold vestments and hear of their improbable journey.

Here are a few of the treasures:

Henry VIII's sword

His hat.

Just one of the seven gold vestments, buried and recovered.

Across the street from The Bishop’s Palace is the Waterford Crystal Factory and showroom.  There are tours, but be warned, they fill up fast. Even if you don’t do the tour, walk through the stunning showroom.

Since its beginning as Primrose Glass Company in 1783, Waterford Crystal has had its ups and downs, but somehow always survived because of quality and demand.  I suggest this link if you want to read more:

http://www.all-ireland.com/attractions/munster/waterford/waterfordcrystal.htm

Now for a drink.  Walk down the street.  Look for a crowd of boisterous barbarians.  Go inside.  Ah, that’s better.  Education is a thirsty business.

Flowers adorn this city!

That boisterous crowd you were looking for.

A bit of shopping.

End it with a pub lunch:  Shepard's pie!