Showing posts with label Berry Bros & Rudd. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Berry Bros & Rudd. Show all posts

Saturday, December 2, 2017

People of London, Part II



Did you miss Part I ?  Here it is:  https://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2017/12/people-of-london.html

I know both my faithful readers have been up all night, drinking heavily, their
hearts aglow, waiting for the next installment of People of London.  Always 
daring to please even your darkest desires, I raced back to London to chat with
 more Londoners and down a few very bright and stirring beverages.
 
Now let’s begin our journey back into the hearts and souls of those who call this 
fabulous city their home.
 
Lorenzo to the left, Mustafa to the right

There’s the barmen at 45 Jermyn St, pronounced German.  #45 is a part of the very
famous grocers, Fortnum & Mason, but a floor down, with a separate entry on
 Jermyn Street, while F & M’s entry is around the corner on Piccadilly.  Wonderful
 place to stop in for an afternoon pick-me-up.  Make sure to sit at the bar.  The
 barkeeps listen intently as you describe your taste preference and cater to you
 personally. Lorenzo and Mustafa know their stuff.  Lorenzo is from Italy and
 Mustafa is British.
 
Three of us order a gin and tonic, but add, “Make this a special one.” A discussion
follows of tastes and preferences.  With these barmen, hearing about a customer’s 
tastes is not just idle chatter. They offer what has become the rarest of services, 
they listen.
 

Mustafa brings over a bottle of Sipsmith, a gin made in London.  “This is my
favorite,” he says and begins a litany of all the aromas and flavors, with hints of
this and that.  His extensive knowledge not only informs, but exudes charm and 
trust. Good reason.  I feel sure he could tell you every ingredient in every bottle on 
the bar.
 

“And the tonic?” I ask.  Mustafa grabs a bottle of Double Dutch India tonic from
the frig, a brand recently created by twins from the Netherlands, Joyce and Raissa.
You know, of course, that gin originally came from the Netherlands.
 
“You’ll find this is not too sweet, but pairs well with the Sipsmith,” He says. I found 
this to be exactly true, with just a bare squeeze of lemon to brighten it up.  The man
 certainly knows how to listen and faultlessly match flavors to my taste buds.
 
No artificial ingredients, colorings, or additives in this tonic and paired with Sipsmith, 
it’s the best gin and tonic ever to tickle my tongue and slide down my thirsty throat. 
High praise from a very experienced throat.
 
We’d ordered salads, so as not to appear mere drinkers with a rabid thirst.  Lorenzo 
explained buratta to us.  “It’s the creamy inside of fresh mozzarella, and so delicious.
You’ll love this salad.”  And so we did!



 
But, just in case you're having breakfast and not at present into gin and tonic I've 
included a recipe (from Genius Kitchen web site) for a Bloody Mary, that very roughly
approximates the fab Bloody Mary served at 45 Jermyn.
 
Having slaked our thirst and hunger, we wandered just down the street in search of 
more conversations.
 

Berry Brothers & Rudd are the oldest purveyors of wine and spirits in London and
although the main shop is still in the same place it has been for centuries, around the corner
they have just opened a more expansive retail wine and spirit shop. Quinton, 
a young Frenchman works there and so do Englishmen, George and Rob.

 
Quinton is spelled the same way in French, but pronounced something like Coun-tan.  
You know those French, love ‘em or hate’em, you have to love ‘em.
 

Quinton was quick to answer questions about wine and spirits, but he is also a
home-taught chef who was exuberant about cooking.  A very saucy man.  Yes, 
dear ones, that is called a pun.
 
But, as a man with an interest in languages, I had to ask how Quinton became so
proficient in English. “At first I had only English from school, which everyone knows
is only good for learning words and phrases you will never use. (laughing)  
‘My grandmother’s pen rests on the table.’  Which has never come up in conversation.
 So, I kept practicing with friends and when I got a job here, English came very fast.”
 
Both George and Quinton told us about a liquor concocted by Berry Bro & Rudd in
1903 for the King Edward VII of England.  George’s version was:  “The King’s
Ginger was commissioned by Royal Physicians to keep the King warm and revived
during his morning drives in his Daimler auto, the first ‘horseless carriage’ to be
owned by the Royal Family.”  George poured us a taste.  We bought a couple of bottles. 
Want to know more? http://thekingsginger.com/ 


 
The King’s Ginger does indeed have a gingery flavor, but it’s more complex than that.  
Try to imagine the aromas of Christmas, with cinnamon and ginger and pine and the
heat from a roaring fire.  I’ve no doubt it pleased the king as he braved the crisp 
morning air and put pedal to the metal.
 
By the way, King Edward, who only reined 1901-1910, was the eldest of Queen
Victoria’s children. Just to whet your appetite to know more, let’s say Edward lived
LARGE.
 
In the afternoon, it was off to Duke’s Bar at Dukes Hotel. 


 
Sitting and waiting for a table and a Vespa Martini at the world famous Duke’s Bar
in the Duke’s Hotel, we met a young Brit couple who live just outside the city and
came in for a night. A delightful pair!  Do they come into the city often?
“No, not really.”  Have they been to Duke’s before?  “No, never.”  And then we chat
 lightly about living in America and England.



 
Not sure what a Vespa Martini is or curious about the Duke’s Bar experience? 
 
https://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2015/04/a-martini-worthy-of-james-bond-dukes.html
 
Also waiting was an actor, That’s the PC, generic term for male and females with
beautiful faces who are paid exorbitant amounts to pretend to be someone else. 
But in the non-PC world, she is an actress.  So much more polite to say actress than
 to speak of genitalia. . 
 
But, yes, she is both very beautiful and very charming, with dark hair and hypnotic 
eyes. As I fell under her spell, I just had to ask a delicate question that didn’t involve 
Harvey Weinstein. “So are actors able to compartmentalize and go full steam ahead
at auditions?  Do you worry about anything or anybody?”
 
“I don’t do a good job of compartmentalizing. I keep thinking, ‘Oh! the woman
before me did such a good job!’ and the air is filled with insecurities.”
 
She’s not an American native, but from Victoria, British Columbia and I kept 
thinking, she’s a Canadian, living in L.A., visiting London and chatting with a
 couple of Americans who live in Germany.
 
But, then, that’s the essence of London, people from all over, coming to populate
a city, some staying forever and some for only a short time.  But short stay or long, 
people are the city.
 
Try not to forget this valuable lesson, children, when you visit this wonderful city,
shopping, drinking everywhere from the neighborhood pub to the some of the finest
and most elegant watering holes in the world.  And never again just walk past the
shopkeepers and policemen.  Want to get to know London? Get to know the people!
 So endeth the daily lesson.
 

from Genius Kitchen

·       3cups tomato juice
·       3tablespoons lemon juice
·       3tablespoons lime juice
·       1tablespoon prepared horseradish
·       12tablespoonsWorcestershire sauce
·       14teaspoon garlic powder
·       34teaspoon Tabasco sauce
·       34teaspoon celery salt
·       12teaspoon coarse black pepper
·       13cup pickle juice
·       1ounce vodka, per drink

DIRECTIONS

1.   In a blender combine the tomato juice, lemon juice, lime juice, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder, pickle juice, and hot sauce and process until smooth. Transfer to a nonreactive container and add celery salt and black pepper, to taste. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 2 hours and up to overnight.
2.   When ready to serve, fill each glass with ice.

3.   Add 1 ounce of vodka to each glass, then fill the glass with the bloody Mary mix. Stir well, and garnish each glass with your favorite veggie, pickle, celery, pickled green bean, or a pickled okra.

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Posh London: A tour of St James Street


St James Street, photo courtesy of S. McKee

London:  So you’ve viewed the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, heard the Beefeaters’ fascinating stories of lopped off heads and deep dungeons at the Tower of London, scaled the heights of the London Eye, and glimpsed St Paul’s from the all-metal Millennium Bridge.
The St James Palace
Time to get off at the Green Park tube station and find your way to the St James area, which I choose to call Posh London.  In truth there are lots of Posh Londons, but my favorite is the few blocks near the Palace of St James.  You know about the Palace, right?  Once the home of the Royal Family, it is now used for ceremonial occasions and not opened to the public.  One of those occasions was the signing of the treaty creating the Charter of the United Nations in 1941. 

Did you know Ambassadors to Great Britain still present their credentials there?  Yes, the U.S. Ambassador’s title is Ambassador to the Court of St James.

That’s the nutshell version.  But, you might want to know it was built by Henry VIII on the site of a leper’s hospital,  and often served as a royal residence until 1837, when Queen Victoria officially moved her residence to Buckingham Palace.  Some lesser royals still have apartments there.

Besides the historical references, why even mention this red brick wonder to an avid shopper and bon vivant?  Simple. In early England, where there was royal blood, there was tons of money.  So, it’s here that London’s oldest shops sprang up, many of which still open their doors to those of lesser bloodlines, with fat wallets, who crave the finer things in life.

Here’s a very short list and one that will occupy a very full Saturday.




1676 – Lock & Company, 6 St James Street.  It’s both the world’s oldest hat store and one of the oldest family businesses.  Winston Churchill bought hats here and so did Admiral Lord Nelson, Britain’s greatest naval hero (Trafalgar Square is named after him.)  Walk to the back of the shop to see history behind glass. Go upstairs to find ladies hats.  All hats are designed and made locally.   http://www.lockhatters.co.uk




1698 - Berry Brothers & Rudd, 3 St James Street.  London’s oldest wine store. They also sell spirits to everyone, including the Royal Family.  Been in the same spot and run by the same family for eight generations.  Walk into the shop and be greeted with smiles and cordiality.  Check out the ancient plank floors and gasp at the variety of wines and spirits from around the world.  They also do special events and tastings by appointment.  Ask to speak to Alice! http://www.bbr.com



Don’t neglect the narrow alley right beside Berry Bros & Rudd, Pickering Place.  Walk through the alleyway to the smallest square in London, which used to be called Stroud’s Court and was also the site of the Embassy of the Republic of Texas.  

1707 – Fortnum & Mason (around the corner), 181 Piccadilly, a fine food emporium, which also has floors of other luxury goods.  The store was begun by William Fortnum, a footman to the court of Queen Anne, who began selling candle stubs from the palace, and used his earnings to establish a grocery store.   https://www.fortnumandmason.com

1730 – Floris, 89 Jermyn Street.  Begun by a Spaniard, Juan Famenias Floris and still on the same site, owned by the same family.  A perfumery?  So what?  So, Floris 89 is the scent favored by Ian Fleming and also his creation, James Bond.  The counter and wooden display cases date to the Great Exhibition of 1851.  Walk in and be lovingly cloaked by a wonderland  of scents.  The soaps are so luxurious I use no other.  But, on the off chance you don’t see what you’re looking for, Floris is happy to blend a bespoke scent for her ladyship.  If you’re lucky, as we were, the owner will be traipsing through and if so, be sure to shake his hand, mention my name and note the perplexed look on his face.  However, if you see Donika, please say hello.  http://www.florislondon.com/en_eur/

1787 – James J. Fox (once Robert Lewis), 19 St James Street,  is a cigar store.  Even if you don’t smoke, at least take a moment to peer through the window at the store where Winston Churchill bought his Habanas.   https://www.jjfox.co.uk

1790 – D.R. Harris & Company,  29 St James Street, began as Harris’s Apothecary (Harris was a surgeon)  Another place for wonderful floral perfumes and shaving products, still at the original spot.  http://www.drharris.co.uk


1797 – Hatchard’s Books, 187 Piccadilly.  Back up a second and let’s go back to Fortnum and Mason’s.  Hatchard’s, Britain’s oldest bookstore is right next door.  So?  If you’ve seen one bookstore…..forget that old saw.  Hatchard’s is home to many of the world’s wonderful authors, and by that I mean they stop here frequently.  Want a signed copy?  Autographed books seem to be on every shelf, in every room, and there are lots of rooms.   https://www.hatchards.co.uk


1805 – Truefitt & Hill, 71 St James Street.  Although not on the Bond Street site where it began, I cannot but mention the Guinness Book certified ‘Oldest Barbershop in the World.’  They’ve been cutting hair for the families of nine British monarchs, dating back to George III.  Mention a man of note and he’s probably had his hair cut here, from Winston Churchill to John Wayne and a galore of blue bloods, extending to the present day.  Yes, Truefitt & Hill’s barbers journey to Buckingham Palace to cut the hair of  H.R.H. The Duke of Edinburgh, but other Royals come to them.  I chatted with some of the employees who had nothing but good to say about The House of Windsor.  Gentlemen all. Of course services come at a price.  Walk in, sit down and tell them how you want your $65 haircut done.  While you’re there, be sure and say hello to U-la.  (U = oo, as in school)

As a personal endorsement, I use no other products than T & H shaving cream (Sandalwood), aftershave balm, and men’s cologne, all of which come in a variety of scents.  Once I discovered these exceptional products, I suddenly looked forward to shaving again.

photo courtesy of S. McKee

photo courtesy of S. McKee
So, now it’s time for a drink.  No better place in St James than Dukes Bar in the Dukes Hotel (35 St James Place, a small alley off St James Street).  It’s where Ian Fleming came to loiter, drink, and plot Bond’s exploits, and where they serve the Vesper martini described by 007 in Casino Royal.  Yes, it is pricy (about $27), but  it’s worth every penny to settle into a bit of butter soft leather, feel the comfort that permeates the gentlemen’s club atmosphere, hear the history, and see such a famous drink mixed just for you, at possibly the most famous watering hole in London.  For more, see my blog at: http://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2015/04/a-martini-worthy-of-james-bond-dukes.html

Which brings up the question, what does luxury mean?  More expensive?  Exclusive? Often, but that’s far from the whole story.  In the St James area, not only do you get shops that withstood the test of centuries, but shopkeepers and clerks and hairdressers and bartenders who absolutely know their business and their exclusive products.  Take the case of footwear.  


1866- John Lobb Bootmaker, 9 St James Street, which is called by Esquire Magazine the most beautiful shop in the world.  Here you can have footwear made that fits your foot exactly, and with quality you find in few other places.  Many of the greats I’ve mentioned came here for their shoes and boots, as did Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin.   Ladies, they will make your shoes, too.  Buy Lobb footwear and you own them for life.  Never out of style.  Need repairs?  Easily done.  After all, the people who make your shoes know your foot.  The fitter.  The last-maker (wooden form).  The pattern cutter. The clicker. The closer.  The maker.  The socker.  The tree maker.  Check out the web site to read about all these meticulous people who hand construct every step of the way, from precise measurements to finished product.   A pair of men’s shoes run in the neighborhood of $5500.  But, check out the complete price list.

More about luxury.  How about the less expensive items, such as perfume and toiletry?  At Floris, you’ll find a package of three bars of soaps that cost about $15.  Pay about the same price for a tube of shaving cream at Truefitt & Hill.  At both places the clerks will explain the exact ingredients and how each item is made.  What do you get for your money?  Soaps that feel like silk on your skin.  Bars of soap that never crack because they’ve been triple French milled.  Shaving cream that will make you look forward to your next shave and make you swear you’ll never use anything else.

On your next trip to London, do yourself a big favor and wander the streets around St James.  What an experience!  Craftsmanship and service still live!  Now, I’m going to sit back and have another sip of this almost indescribably delicious martini…want to join me?