Showing posts with label Fortnum & Mason. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fortnum & Mason. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

45 Jermyn Street - A Drink to Savor in a Place of Solace





Today, friends, devoted followers, child-like adults, and imbibers of all ages, I’ll interest you in a bar that is new, yet has both feet in the history of London’s commerce.  45 Jermyn Street is both the eponymous name and location of Fortnum & Mason’s newest bow to fashionable dining and drinking.



This street, pronounced German, is one of the sparkling highlights of the St James area, ever since Henry Jermyn, the Duke of St Albans, developed this part of the city in 1664.  See, kiddies, there are things older than the Super Bowl and Nintendo.

Lots of famous names have lived on this street, including Sir Isaac Newton (at Number 88, 1696-1700), The Duke of Marlborough (remember the battle of Waterloo that brought down Napoleon I?), and Napoleon’s nephew, Louis Napoleon, who became the Emperor Napoleon III.

If you’ve wandered through the St James area of the City of Westminster, London, as I’m sure my constant readers have, you’ll know it’s one of the oldest areas of the city, replete with exclusive shops (many of them suppliers of ladies and gentlemen’s attire) and some of which date back hundreds of years.  Many of the shops still occupy the same buildings they did centuries ago.  Need a reboot of ye old memory stick?



Now let’s stroll into 45 Jermyn Street and take a stool at the fabulous marble bar that glides smoothly from one end of the room to the other.  Why do I say fabulous? When a man’s got a raging thirst. any dusty countertop decorated with an icy beer is fabulous.  I can see you’re confused.  The dusty counter top and icy beer is not a bar, it’s a joint.

Now don’t get me wrong, in my misspent youth, I darkened the doorway of many a joint.  But now I are sopistikated, cultivated, and swavie.  45 Jermyn Street is my new kind of place, where I find respite and solace, away from the loud, ripped jeans funny haircut people.

At 45 Jermyn Street, leave the ripped jeans and flip-flops behind. Of course, you could say that about the best parts of London in general, but especially in this place, where you come to politely sip and also to learn, in an atmosphere of cultured elegance.  Learn, you say?  Yes, I do.  Our bartender, Dean, in his upscale uniform of back slacks and waistcoat, white shirt and black tie, is a fount of information, and adept at explaining the lavish drink menu, featuring the light, the heavy, the common, and especially the tall drinks imbued with exotic flavors.

This wonderful bar is only three years old and Dean has been there the whole time.  Although a young guy, working at a restaurant bar owned by Fortnum & Mason (Est1707), you know he’s been well schooled to the point of being expressively conversant on every bottle of liquor, every additive, and everything else that goes into making a cocktail that takes flight to the lofty heavens.  Being a former aviator, I yearn for flights to the lofty heavens.

When you order a drink, Dean, or any of the other members of the bar staff will ask you particulars.  Like a strong drink?  Mild?  Something in between?  Fruity? Sour? Sweet?  Having learned your preferences, the barkeep will customize any drink to your exact specifications.  It’s not just a jigger here and a jigger there, and here’s your Martini or Manhattan, or Gimlet, and that’s the way we make it.  Oh, no, the cocktail in front of you is tailored to your taste.  Even if this is the first time your shadow has crossed the threshold, you’re treated as a special guest.

Let’s look at the bar menu.




You’ll note that some of the drinks have an ingredient called acid.  Acid can mean citrus, but it can also mean acid phosphate, which used to be common in cocktails, then disappeared, and now is making a comeback.  It has about the same ph level as lime juice, and used sparingly.

“It also leaves little round circles on this beautiful marble bar,” Dean says.

What do the English drink these days? we ask, expecting the placid answer to be either Scotch or gin. 

“Bourbon is really making headway,” says Dean, “We tend to go in for the sweet taste of American whiskies, but also gin,” he says, pointing to an extensive array of bottles behind the bar.  There is also a collection of various flavoring made in-house.

Want a gin and tonic?  Even the different tonics have not escaped Dean’s practiced eye.  Never knew there was much of a difference, but after a taste test of various brands, I now know differently.  Some are as sweet as a soft drink, others as dry as a dry wine.



What are the aperitif sodas we see on the menu?  We ask.  Our leader takes us  into the world of libations.  “Oh, you’re going to like these.  Pick one.”  Dean goes on to explain that soda does not mean a drink that’s candy sweet and came out of a vending machine, but based on seltzer water infused with some acid, perhaps a fruit essence or two and a light touch of liquor.  Just the thing for an afternoon of shopping, while avoiding the disadvantages of a befuddled brain and weak knees.  Calms the nerves.  Lightens the spirit!



So, what about the restaurant.  Gotta confess.  Dean has us all enthrall. Time slips away. We didn’t even take a glance at the restaurant menu, but I’d hazard a guess you couldn’t go wrong there either.  Check it out: https://45jermynst.com

But, after your chat with Dean is finished, and your drink a most pleasant memory, you’d be a fool not to take advantage of the shops on Jermyn Street. Let’s look at a few:

Floris –at Number 89, Est 1730.  Perfumers to the Royal Court, Floris is the place where Ian Fleming, James Bond’s creator, shopped.  James Bond prefers the Number 89 gentlemen’s cologne.  Drop in and have a sniff!  Don’t neglect the ladies' and gentlemen’s soaps that glide like satin on your skin, or the elegant powders and creams. Donika, a lovely sales assistant, will carefully explain everything. http://www.florislondon.com/en_gbp

Paxton & Whitfield, at Number 93, Est 1797, is London’s oldest cheese shop. A cheese fanatic? Take a gander at cheeses from all over the globe.  Bet you can finagle a taste or two. http://www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk/visit-us

Turnbull & Asser, Numbers  71-72,  Est 1885 (for ready to wear; for bespoke shirts go to 23 Bury Street)  Shirtmakers for the Royal Court.  Others who have worn T & A shirts include, Sir Winston Churchill, Ronald Reagan, John Kerry, George H. W. Bush, Charlie Chaplin, and Picasso. http://turnbullandasser.eu

John Lobb Bootmaker, Number 88, Est 1849.  Those who wear or have worn Lobb shoes include:  Princess Diana, Prince Charles, Queen Victoria, Frank Sinatra, Andy Warhol, Jackie Kennedy, Calvin Klein, and many others. http://www.jermynstreet.net/shop/john-lobb-2/

And for goodness sakes, do not pass up a visit to 45’s owner’s store, the world famous Fortnum & Mason, Est 1707, perhaps the world’s finest grocery store.  Although F & M’s address is 181 Piccadilly, I include it because it’s actually on both Piccadilly and Jermyn streets and is right above our bar of choice, 45 Jermyn Street! https://www.fortnumandmason.com/stores

So you see, you’re not just dropping by 45 Jermyn Street for a cocktail or a wonderful lunch.  Consider it a moment of pleasure among many on this famous street in perhaps London’s most excusive shopping area.



CONTACT
THE CORNER OF
JERMYN ST. AND DUKE ST.
45 Jermyn St., St. James's
London, SW1Y 6DN
Monday-Friday
07:00 - 23:30
Saturday
08:00 - 23:30
Sunday
08:00 - 18:00
Bank Holidays
Open from 08:00



Sunday, January 24, 2016

Posh London: A tour of St James Street


St James Street, photo courtesy of S. McKee

London:  So you’ve viewed the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, heard the Beefeaters’ fascinating stories of lopped off heads and deep dungeons at the Tower of London, scaled the heights of the London Eye, and glimpsed St Paul’s from the all-metal Millennium Bridge.
The St James Palace
Time to get off at the Green Park tube station and find your way to the St James area, which I choose to call Posh London.  In truth there are lots of Posh Londons, but my favorite is the few blocks near the Palace of St James.  You know about the Palace, right?  Once the home of the Royal Family, it is now used for ceremonial occasions and not opened to the public.  One of those occasions was the signing of the treaty creating the Charter of the United Nations in 1941. 

Did you know Ambassadors to Great Britain still present their credentials there?  Yes, the U.S. Ambassador’s title is Ambassador to the Court of St James.

That’s the nutshell version.  But, you might want to know it was built by Henry VIII on the site of a leper’s hospital,  and often served as a royal residence until 1837, when Queen Victoria officially moved her residence to Buckingham Palace.  Some lesser royals still have apartments there.

Besides the historical references, why even mention this red brick wonder to an avid shopper and bon vivant?  Simple. In early England, where there was royal blood, there was tons of money.  So, it’s here that London’s oldest shops sprang up, many of which still open their doors to those of lesser bloodlines, with fat wallets, who crave the finer things in life.

Here’s a very short list and one that will occupy a very full Saturday.




1676 – Lock & Company, 6 St James Street.  It’s both the world’s oldest hat store and one of the oldest family businesses.  Winston Churchill bought hats here and so did Admiral Lord Nelson, Britain’s greatest naval hero (Trafalgar Square is named after him.)  Walk to the back of the shop to see history behind glass. Go upstairs to find ladies hats.  All hats are designed and made locally.   http://www.lockhatters.co.uk




1698 - Berry Brothers & Rudd, 3 St James Street.  London’s oldest wine store. They also sell spirits to everyone, including the Royal Family.  Been in the same spot and run by the same family for eight generations.  Walk into the shop and be greeted with smiles and cordiality.  Check out the ancient plank floors and gasp at the variety of wines and spirits from around the world.  They also do special events and tastings by appointment.  Ask to speak to Alice! http://www.bbr.com



Don’t neglect the narrow alley right beside Berry Bros & Rudd, Pickering Place.  Walk through the alleyway to the smallest square in London, which used to be called Stroud’s Court and was also the site of the Embassy of the Republic of Texas.  

1707 – Fortnum & Mason (around the corner), 181 Piccadilly, a fine food emporium, which also has floors of other luxury goods.  The store was begun by William Fortnum, a footman to the court of Queen Anne, who began selling candle stubs from the palace, and used his earnings to establish a grocery store.   https://www.fortnumandmason.com

1730 – Floris, 89 Jermyn Street.  Begun by a Spaniard, Juan Famenias Floris and still on the same site, owned by the same family.  A perfumery?  So what?  So, Floris 89 is the scent favored by Ian Fleming and also his creation, James Bond.  The counter and wooden display cases date to the Great Exhibition of 1851.  Walk in and be lovingly cloaked by a wonderland  of scents.  The soaps are so luxurious I use no other.  But, on the off chance you don’t see what you’re looking for, Floris is happy to blend a bespoke scent for her ladyship.  If you’re lucky, as we were, the owner will be traipsing through and if so, be sure to shake his hand, mention my name and note the perplexed look on his face.  However, if you see Donika, please say hello.  http://www.florislondon.com/en_eur/

1787 – James J. Fox (once Robert Lewis), 19 St James Street,  is a cigar store.  Even if you don’t smoke, at least take a moment to peer through the window at the store where Winston Churchill bought his Habanas.   https://www.jjfox.co.uk

1790 – D.R. Harris & Company,  29 St James Street, began as Harris’s Apothecary (Harris was a surgeon)  Another place for wonderful floral perfumes and shaving products, still at the original spot.  http://www.drharris.co.uk


1797 – Hatchard’s Books, 187 Piccadilly.  Back up a second and let’s go back to Fortnum and Mason’s.  Hatchard’s, Britain’s oldest bookstore is right next door.  So?  If you’ve seen one bookstore…..forget that old saw.  Hatchard’s is home to many of the world’s wonderful authors, and by that I mean they stop here frequently.  Want a signed copy?  Autographed books seem to be on every shelf, in every room, and there are lots of rooms.   https://www.hatchards.co.uk


1805 – Truefitt & Hill, 71 St James Street.  Although not on the Bond Street site where it began, I cannot but mention the Guinness Book certified ‘Oldest Barbershop in the World.’  They’ve been cutting hair for the families of nine British monarchs, dating back to George III.  Mention a man of note and he’s probably had his hair cut here, from Winston Churchill to John Wayne and a galore of blue bloods, extending to the present day.  Yes, Truefitt & Hill’s barbers journey to Buckingham Palace to cut the hair of  H.R.H. The Duke of Edinburgh, but other Royals come to them.  I chatted with some of the employees who had nothing but good to say about The House of Windsor.  Gentlemen all. Of course services come at a price.  Walk in, sit down and tell them how you want your $65 haircut done.  While you’re there, be sure and say hello to U-la.  (U = oo, as in school)

As a personal endorsement, I use no other products than T & H shaving cream (Sandalwood), aftershave balm, and men’s cologne, all of which come in a variety of scents.  Once I discovered these exceptional products, I suddenly looked forward to shaving again.

photo courtesy of S. McKee

photo courtesy of S. McKee
So, now it’s time for a drink.  No better place in St James than Dukes Bar in the Dukes Hotel (35 St James Place, a small alley off St James Street).  It’s where Ian Fleming came to loiter, drink, and plot Bond’s exploits, and where they serve the Vesper martini described by 007 in Casino Royal.  Yes, it is pricy (about $27), but  it’s worth every penny to settle into a bit of butter soft leather, feel the comfort that permeates the gentlemen’s club atmosphere, hear the history, and see such a famous drink mixed just for you, at possibly the most famous watering hole in London.  For more, see my blog at: http://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2015/04/a-martini-worthy-of-james-bond-dukes.html

Which brings up the question, what does luxury mean?  More expensive?  Exclusive? Often, but that’s far from the whole story.  In the St James area, not only do you get shops that withstood the test of centuries, but shopkeepers and clerks and hairdressers and bartenders who absolutely know their business and their exclusive products.  Take the case of footwear.  


1866- John Lobb Bootmaker, 9 St James Street, which is called by Esquire Magazine the most beautiful shop in the world.  Here you can have footwear made that fits your foot exactly, and with quality you find in few other places.  Many of the greats I’ve mentioned came here for their shoes and boots, as did Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin.   Ladies, they will make your shoes, too.  Buy Lobb footwear and you own them for life.  Never out of style.  Need repairs?  Easily done.  After all, the people who make your shoes know your foot.  The fitter.  The last-maker (wooden form).  The pattern cutter. The clicker. The closer.  The maker.  The socker.  The tree maker.  Check out the web site to read about all these meticulous people who hand construct every step of the way, from precise measurements to finished product.   A pair of men’s shoes run in the neighborhood of $5500.  But, check out the complete price list.

More about luxury.  How about the less expensive items, such as perfume and toiletry?  At Floris, you’ll find a package of three bars of soaps that cost about $15.  Pay about the same price for a tube of shaving cream at Truefitt & Hill.  At both places the clerks will explain the exact ingredients and how each item is made.  What do you get for your money?  Soaps that feel like silk on your skin.  Bars of soap that never crack because they’ve been triple French milled.  Shaving cream that will make you look forward to your next shave and make you swear you’ll never use anything else.

On your next trip to London, do yourself a big favor and wander the streets around St James.  What an experience!  Craftsmanship and service still live!  Now, I’m going to sit back and have another sip of this almost indescribably delicious martini…want to join me?