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| Photo by Jan Stroud |
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| Photo by Jan Stroud |
To get in the swing of Metz at Christmas time, you must get to the Christmas markets…yes, that’s plural, and you also have to understand this ancient city is French to its core, offering an air of exuberance, from the elegance of it’s famous St Étienne (Saint Stephen) Cathedral, to the lively Marché Couvert, to the winding cobblestone streets and outdoor cafes. Metz is a feast for the senses. The streets are alive with a joie de vie, that rivals anything in Paris. Even so, the Christmas markets bring new and colorful life to the old city.
Most towns in Germany are satisfied with a single market, but Metz has five or six or seven. Every time you wander down a new street there’s a new market. But, even the streets themselves are dressed up for Santa’s arrival. Even the square by the cathedral has its own market, with a lofty Ferris Wheel.
But Christmas is over, right? When it comes to Metz the answer is yes and no. I’m writing this on the day after Christmas, but Metz’s multitude of Marché de Noël will continue until 30 December.
We arrived in the afternoon and began our feast near two o’clock, stopping into a bistro for quiche Lorraine and a glass of Alsatian white wine.
No need to speak French, except for smiles and the mandatory Bonjour! This simple greeting opens the door to polite service, and conversation in French or English or German or any combination. Maybe you’d like to know the correct way to pronounce Bonjour? Your friendly guide to fun is here to help! Check the greeting in both the English and French pronunciations:
In the late afternoon, the drizzle abated and dusk approached. Time to stroll the well lit streets and get to the markets.
You may notice, France is all about the three F’s…..hey, this ain’t Hollywood, so get your mind strait. The three F’s are: French language, French food, and French fashion. The French, as a rule, like to look classy. A young man may wear a sweatshirt, but with a flare for color and often a scarf, his hair immaculately scuffed de la mode. The young ladies, even if they’re dressed down, wear jeans as tight as a second skin and with high heels, jewelry, and hair and makeup in the movie star class. If there’s a party on, the young women dress like fashion models.
If you aim to follow the French fashion, it helps to be as slim as a willow, both men and women.
As you adventurously browse the Christmas kiosks, you’ll find everything your taste buds could ever dream about. Pasties direct from the heavens above, cheeses of every description, sausages tame and wild, crepes of course, but also a variety of mulled wines.
While the Germans may offer white or red Glühwein, the French will ask which Vin Chaud you prefer and when you answer either white or red, further questions follow. White? Yes, but which white? The Riesling? The Mirabella? The Chenin Blanc?
My fellow traveler opt for warm and fruity Mirabella and I succumbed to an Irish Coffee, topped with sweetened whip cream.
Then we followed up with Churros fresh from the grease, with enough powdered sugar to challenge our insulin level.
But, there is more to the markets than sugary food. Hats and scarfs galore. Freshly shucked oysters, snails in a rich buttered wine sauce. Christmas ornaments. Submarine buns overflowing with deliciously melted local cheeses, whole candied fruits, and chocolates enough to astound Willy Wonka. Wine and champagne by the glass or bottle, shops and department stores open well past the edge of darkness, and restaurants and bars overflowing.
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| Shucking Oysters |
Christmas in Metz expresses exuberance of every sort. If you really want to feel the mood, get a hotel room and bring your party spirit. We kept pace until we couldn’t, then paused to wander one more market before drifting back to our hotel, stopping to visit a wine shop and a kitchen shop and a shoe shop on the way.
And, of course, there’s always room for one more vin chaud! Why not? It’s Christmas.
