Thursday, November 1, 2012

Jock Überreacher - Cracking the Case




I arrived in the small, dusty town of Bootyville wearing only my white Jockey shorts.  I travel light.  It’s better and easier that way.  Comfortable too.  I like to remain anonymous and what kind of description can anyone give about a man wearing only Jockey shorts besides “He was only wearing Jockey shorts?”

No particular reason I stopped in Bootyville, but I was about to find out just what kind of nasty, nefarious, really, really bad burg it was.  The bus door slid open with the whoosh of air you’d expect from a bus door.  The driver didn’t give me a glance, but I noticed his eyes blink and his toe tap on the accelerator pedal located right below his foot, right next to the brake pedal, which he didn’t tap. That told me everything I needed to know.

I got off the bus at the school bus stop right on the edge of a dusty cornfield and across the street from a dusty school.  School was out.  I could tell school was out because nobody was in the school. As a shower attendant in the YMCA, I learned to be observant and quick. A couple of teachers hung around outside the building which was a school, chewing toothpicks and waiting for their boyfriends or husbands to come back from the mill and pick them up.  The two I saw could have been thirty, or thirty-one…maybe thirty-two, or thirty-three.  Although I was some 300 yards away, I could see their beady eyes because their eyes were open, but not wide.

I knew whomever was coming to pick them up….one of them may have been thirty-four…would be coming from the mill. I’d seen a sign coming into town.  “We love our Mill.  You’re darn tootin!’  The”darn” was in red and crisscrossed with two black knitting needles.  Underneath, in smaller black letters was printed, “Trespassers will be shot.”

The cop car, its long antenna making little thin circles in a sky strewn with dusty clouds, like a mosquito searching for cow in heat, stopped beside me.  The deputy had a three-day growth of beard and a year’s worth of tartar on her teeth.  A long, thin coffee stain ran down the front of her greasy shirt.

“We don’t like your kind in Bootyville,” she snarled, staring down at my freshly painted, cheery red toenails.  “Best you chase down another bus and high tail it.”

It’s an old trick I learned while serving as a Tennessee Oyster Investigator.  A man paints his toes a bright red and nobody notices his face.

I guess I should introduce myself.  The name’s Jock.  Jock Überreacher.  I’m a professional drifter and problem solver, if you catch my drift.  I’ve lived all over the country, but only a day or two at a time.  I was born that way.  My pappy was a very strict drifter and he taught me all he knew about drifting.  My mother didn’t seem to mind the drifting life, but then she was seldom there, being a First Sergeant in the Army and an expert with a pistol, knife and extended, electronic mouth organ.  Although I didn’t see much of her in my early years, she taught me a lot about unnamed combat in her letters.  It was what you might call urban jungle survival by correspondence.  She left me with one very important lesson.  There’s a time to fight, using very special unnamed combat techniques only a mother can teach, and a time to act innocent and play your mouth organ.  Nowadays, I never went anywhere without my mouth organ strapped to my leg, just above my ankle.  You just never know.

The deputy hadn’t gone away.  She just sat there, the car idling, while she stared at my toenails and snickered while I answered her.  “What if I decide I like Bootyville, and want to make it my semi-permanent home?”

“What if I decide to pull out my pistola and make them cute little tootsies dance?” she asked.  It could have been rhetorical, but I couldn’t take the chance.

It looked to me like she was reaching for her gun.  I took a step forward and before she could even say Texas Two Step, or Alabama Circumstantial Mambo, I’d reached inside the cop car and disarmed her.  They don’t call me Überreacher for nothing.

Distracting the subject and grabbing the weapon from inside a car with the window down was a practiced skill I’d acquired during my undercover time as a street-side window washer in Detroit.  Obviously this deputy had never been to the big, mean streets of a city where crime never sleeps.

“What’s your name, darlin’?” I purred, showing her the barrel end of a 357 Super Sport Cranium Adjuster.

She spit out a thin stream of tebacci juice, but missed me by a mile.  “Betsey Bullhockey don’t give out her name to strangers.”  Then she smiled, like that was going to make me go all warm and cuddly inside.  “You’d best give me back the gun,” she said.  “It ain’t loaded, anyhoo.”

I should have known that.  The weight was different, lighter.  A shell weighs….wait a sec.  You have to add in the weight of the grains of the powder.  Then you have to consider the bullet itself.  Anyway, it was lighter.

“Since Sheriff Willie T Tyler took over, the town ain’t been the same.  He don’t abide no fuss or mess and that includes bullets for our guns.”

“I don’t follow.”

“Restaurants can’t use stoves to cook nothing and no lattes neither.  Makes too much of a mess.  Sheriff Willie T keeps a clean town.  Especially when it comes to food.  He’s all for Raw and Order.”

I handed the weapon back and Betsey gave me a ride into town.  “I spec you can use something to eat.  The Camptown Race Treat’s right over there.  Best peanut butter this side of ….”  The words drifted away as Betsey spied a tall, lanky man come out of Camptown, look around nervously, shiver, wink, tap the top of his head twice, and amble down the street.

“Something’s fishy around here,” she mumbled.  “I’ve seen that same man come out of the restaurant before.”

“Maybe he lives around here.”

“Maybe so, but the last time he walked in the other direction.  That just don’t make sense.”

“Going for a haircut?”  I could see the barber pole twisting in its red, white, and blue way.

“Nobody goes for a haircut around here.”

“Why not?”

“Sheriff Willie T don’t like it.  Hair all over the floor.  He’s talked the town council into paying the barbers not to cut hair.  Pays ‘em a thousand dollars a week and that don’t include tips.”

“Wow, not exactly razor thin profits.”

“But, if that tall, lanky stranger walked that way, he must’ve had a reason.”

I went through a few more possibilities with Betsey.   Public toilet?  Dishwasher repair shop?  Gas station?  Pet shop?

She had an answer for everything.  No public toilets without a prescription.  Dishwashers repair not open on days of the week.  Gas station by invitation only.  And, he didn’t look like one of the Pet Shop Boys.

“There’s only one thing it could be,” I surmised.  “Egg counterfeiting.”

Betsey looked confused.  “I’ve heard of all sorts of things.   Fixing chicken races.  Eye socket enlargement schemes.  Fresh butter sold as filler dirt.  But egg counterfeiting?”  She had a look of disgust on her face and let me know she was willing to do whatever it took to get to the bottom of this.  Shave her face. Comb her legs.  Brush her teeth.  Give up chewing tobacco until after breakfast.

We waited until nightfall.  I’d asked more questions about egg operations.  “Well, she said, “There’s only one place any kind of egg counterfeiting could happen and that’s at the old Whiffer place near the county line.”

“You’re talking about That County?”

“I’m sure as hell not talking about This County.”  I was warming to her cheery sense of humor.  I chuckled.  Then I belly laughed.  That’s not just an expression.  My navel gapped and made a whistling sound.

Before we headed out to the old Whiffer place, I had Betsey make a stop at the Dis-arm Surplus and Pituitary Gland store.  If this was going to mean night work, I’d better be dressed for it.  I picked up a pair of jungle camouflaged briefs, a genuine flashlight, and a sap, which must have weighed a bunch because my underwear sagged when I stuck it in back.

It was getting dark by the time I got changed and got back to the cop car.  Betsey evidently approved, but she had something to add.  “Just stand there a sec.”  She pulled out a can of black spray paint and sprayed over my red toes.  I started to object, but she was right.  Nobody would recognize me now.

The old Whiffer place looked pretty much as you would expect.  It was old, with an old barn, where they used to keep old cows.  You could still sit in the car and catch a whiff.  Hence the name.

We waited a long time.  It was dark, then it was light, then dark again.  Let’s see.  We started on Monday.  That meant tomorrow was Wednesday and yesterday was Tuesday.  That would make day after tomorrow Thursday.  Who knows what would come next?  Could be Monday started again.  When you’re on a dangerous stakeout, you can’t worry about trivia.

Evidently, sitting in a dark car, at night, outside town, brought back the same memories for Betsey it did for me.  “Kiss me, you formerly red-toed devil,” she whispered.  And with a slight belch, she puckered up and slid my way.  But, before my lips could find hers, the bright sweep of a truck’s headlights brought us to our gnarly senses.

“I knew it,” she said under her tobacco breath.  “The tall, lanky guy was the driver of that truck and he’s headed to the Whiffer place.  He was already at the Whiffer place but I didn’t correct her.  “I’d be willing to bet,” she continued, “that truck is loaded with counterfeit cackleberries.”

“Well, the yolks on them,” I said, stepping out of the cop car.

“Where are you going?” she wheezed.
“This nefarious racket is over.  Right now.  Right here.  And, I’m just the man to finish it.”

I could tell she loved the masculine growl in my voice.  Most women do.  Until they see the white underpants and red toes.  That’s why I usually stick to phone sex, but, Betsey was different and I don’t mean just in grooming and personal hygiene.   She had the savoir-faire of a woman who knew what she wanted and what she wanted right now was justice for all the chickens and farmers who worked tirelessly to produce the finest eggs in the world. She was with me.  There was no way she was going to let their pride, sacrifice, and occupational stench be diminished by cheap, plastic eggs, filled with sugary chocolate, and sold as the real McCoy.

Four men, dressed in black, stepped out of the truck.  Then another man stepped out.  That was five.  I recounted just to make sure.  Yep.  One, two, three….”Jock, look out!” Betsey called, “There are four men stepping out of that truck!”

She’d messed up my count, but that didn’t stop me.  I recounted.  She was not correct.  There were five of those vicious, egg-counterfeiting hombres. Unless I’d miscounted.

I pulled the sap out of my underpants and tugged the waistband back up to my waist.  Then I tugged the Jockeys higher to give my legs more freedom.  With stealth, I crept up to the old Whiffer place.  I’d learned creeping when I got my Salamander Merit Badge.

Inside I could hear voices.  It sounded like a barbershop quartet, but the harmony didn’t fool me.  These harmonious punks were up to no good.

There were a dozen ways I could approach this operation.  I could use stealth to sap them one at a time and hope the others didn’t notice.  I could scream real loud and run like hell.  I could scream real loud and get Betsey to run like hell.

Instead, I decided on something they’d never expect.  I pulled out my mouth organ, which had been strapped to my leg, on the side, below the knee, but above the ankle, and played my version of Moon River as I sauntered casually into the barn.  They barely noticed and kept on singing and stacking crates of counterfeit eggs.  At least I thought they hadn’t noticed until I felt a barrel of cold steel being jammed down the back of my jungle camouflaged Jockeys.

“Blow one more note, son and I’ll blow your nosey ass away,” a deep voice growled.  The fifth man!  It was Betsey’s fault.  She’d messed me up while I was counting.  But, there was no time for recriminations now, not while my ass was in a jam.

“You’re Wilbur Crankside,” I said confidently.  “But, you’re known hereabouts as Eggshell Whitey.”  There was a gasp.  They were no doubt asking themselves the same question I was asking myself.  How could I possibly know that?

Now I remembered.  I’d seen a sign outside the school that said, “Today is Wilbur Crankside Day, or as we all know him….Eggshell Whitey!”

It was starting to all make sense.  What better place to store crates and crates of counterfeit eggs than the local schoolhouse?  The old Whiffer place was only the distribution point.  God only knew where all these choco-malted-eggs would wind up.  Chances are the streets of the big cities of America would be strewn with them.  Kids everywhere would end up as sugar-addicted derelicts.  

Crankside had started with one school and built a business based on corruption.  No wonder the whole town could be paid not to barber and cook and clean and shave and brush their teeth.  A huge operation.  That could only mean the sheriff had to be in on it.

“That guy over there is the Sheriff and he’s in on it,” I said, bringing another gasp from the men who had stopped unloading and were paying full attention.

“Yep, I’m Sheriff Willie T Tyler,” he said proudly. “And, you’re a dead man, you Jockey wearing, black-footed stalker!”

“Not so fast, Sheriff,” came Betsey’s melodious baritone.  She held her own gun, pointing at the Sheriff’s chest.  “Now, all you vicious hombres git down and eat dirt.”

“Thanks, Betsey,” I said, “but you forgot there aren’t any bullets in your gun.”  I probably shouldn’t have said that.  357 hindsight.

All hell broke loose.  First thing I did was use an unnamed combat move to un-jam the pistol from my Jockeys and turn it on its owner.

“Jokes on you,” he smiled.  “My gun’s not loaded either.”

I looked at the Sheriff.

“Mine neither.”

Even the smartest criminals make simple mistakes. These boys hadn’t been messy enough.  I dove for the closest guy, while two of them climbed on my back and tried to garrote my privates with my own underwear.  My high pitched squeal told everybody they’d found their target.  Then, two of the others started to sweet-talk Betsey.  I saw the look on her face which said, “Oh help!  Oh, help, help!”  It gave me the burst of adrenalin I needed to leap to my feet, free my swollen, non-detachable parts, and start to really hurt some vicious hombre hiney.

Betsey and I took the whole gang out with unnamed combat moves, busting some heads, removing false teeth, tickling them ‘til their fat jiggled like jelly, giving haircuts with broken beer bottles, getting phone numbers so we could contact their next of kin.  When it was over and the last vicious hombre had gone to meet the real egg maker in heaven, Betsey and I saddled up and rode back to town.  The inside of the old Whiffer place looked like there’d been a choco-egg fight in a phone booth.  We’d leave it to the CIA, FBI, and others who knew the alphabet, to figure out how so much damage could be done without a trace of DNA left behind.

My work was done.  It was time for me to move on, so I decided to drift.  It’s what my daddy taught me and it’s what I do best. 

That night Betsey and I had a long heart-to-heart.  We discussed whether eye gouging or splitting infinitives was the best form of submission. Then we talked about us. Even before I’d unsaddled her and taken the bridle off, we agreed that what we had was too good to last, or even to mention to normal people.  Still, parting with Betsey was bittersweet.  She gave me an empty can of chew as a reminder of the wonderful, unmentionable times we’d shared.  I gave her the somewhat stained, camouflaged Jockeys.

When the bus was well out of town, I tossed the chew can out the window.  I like to travel light.  The mournful, drifting sound of my mouth organ was the only reminder that Jock Überreacher been anywhere near Bootyville.

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Wendelinus Market

Candied almonds, cookies, candy


Italian cookies


The master peeler shows his wares and his skills

Flammkucken, the German version of thin crust pizza

Fresh, herbed focaccia


Ok, fess up.  While you Protestants finish your sodoku, or stare out the window, can any of you Catholics tell me who Wendelin was?  All you backsliders give up?  St Wendelin is the patron saint of plague.  I know.  It was right on the tip of your ecclesiastical tongue, right?

St Wendelin’s history is shaded in the lore and scraps of history from the middle of the first century after Christ.  Apparently, the son of a Scottish king, he embarked on a pilgrimage to Rome.  On his way back, he stopped off in Trier and became a hermit.  Criticized for just hanging out, he took up sheep herding and along the way acquired a heavy rep for curing animals.  When a pestilence hit cattle of the area in the 14th Century, his intercession was credited with saving the herds.  There’s even a city in Germany named for him, St Wendel.

Way back at the beginning of the Eighteenth Century, when local cattle were threatened with disease, one German town held a festival in St Wendelin’s honor.  Services, I’m told, were a relay situation, lasting twelve hours, with participation by several priests.  That was back in 1710.  After enthusiasm died out for twelve hour sermons, not to mention all the wars and pestilence St Wendelin couldn’t handle, the custom gradually withered.

Flash forward to 1986, when the merchants of Ramstein saw a golden opportunity to combine a market day, tradition, religion, and the heartwarming cacophony of cash registers.   Wendelinus Market lives again on Saturday and Sunday of the last weekend in October!

But, even with commercial interests in the fore, at least some remnants of religion and tradition remain.  You can still bring your animals to be blessed.

This year’s festival featured African foods and articles, as well as twenty French stands selling everything from soap to cheese to sausages.

Like any good fest in a German town or village, there was plenty to eat and drink.  The fragrance of hot wine and roasting meat wandered with the crowds down the narrow streets and into the open air of the old market place. With the advent of much lower temperatures, Glüwein was once again in evidence, but also the obligatory wines and beers and schnapps, wursts and potatoes.

Once you go to a German village fest, stroll with a Brat in your fist and a warm Glüwein in your other fist, you’re addicted.  The air is always frosty and clean.  The crowds are always friendly.  St Wendelin would be proud.


A woodturner at work...

...and some of his work

Amazing what you can do with paper and light.


Ribbons for her hair...

Neatest fried potatoes I've seen...and delicious.

Very nice, but at 147 Euros or $195, pretty pricy for a wreath.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Good Day For Fish Soup - Flatter's









There’s a chill in the air.  Leaves are turning.   After a hard morning of shopping (flowers, plants, wine, cheese), thoughts turn to a bright luncheon that fills the gaps, but doesn’t carry the weight of refined carbs and slabs of beef.

When we’re in Homburg, the choices are vast.  For a smallish city, this one steps up a platform or two and caters to those who drive flashy convertibles and drape themselves in Italian wool and sheer silk.  Well, at least the wives and significant others do.  Can’t picture myself in silk, unless it’s tied in a Windsor and fits under a collar.

You can go Asian, with the flare of crunchy Thai or Vietnamese spring rolls, or polish off an elegant schnitzel in a cozy bier stube.  Italian offers the options of lobster filled, hand-rolled ravioli, or stone oven pizza.  But, one thing you’d best not overlook, especially on a chilly day in Homburg, is the heartwarming solace of fish soup.

Flatter’s fish restaurant is as trendy as they come, but not at all pricy.  A big bowl of delicious, chunky, house-made fish soup will run you under ten bucks.  You can also go smaller and cheaper.  Flatter’s rendition reminds me of bouillabaisse, but not quite as heavy.  Matter of fact I’d call Flatter’s version a redolent blend of fish and vegetable soup. 

There are two dining rooms, as well as fresh air seating, and believe it or else, Germans often sit outside, even when the snow is falling and the wind is whistling.  They will never have to fight me for an al fresco seat when the temp can’t make up it’s mind to simply numb your thoughts, or go for the whole body bone chill.  Call me a wimp, but gloves and a scarf will never be necessary at my table.

Germans love the outdoors more than any people I know.  In the dead of winter’s snows, I’ve seen ancient matriarchs pushing their walkers with sure, steady steps, as the drifts swirl.  I’ve seen them from the comfort of the heated seats in my car, I might add.

When we’re at Flatter’s, we prefer to sit at a table in the sunny entry.  Doesn’t sound warm, but with the open kitchen barely ten feet away, it is.   Great view of passing pedestrians and the bustle of the city.

Inside, right by our table, the chef and sous-chef busy themselves, while clerks cater to clientele purchasing both fresh and prepared seafood.  Yes, Flatter’s is also a tidy little fish market.

Back to fish soup.  Lunch is an event in every European restaurant I’ve ever been to.  None of this rush in and rush out.  The feeling is, if you don’t have time to dine, don’t go.

The waitress approaches and takes our order.  We go for a pleasant Pinot Blanc.  Something to tickle the taste buds, but not overpower the delicate flavors of the sea.  She comes back with wine, and afterwards with a basket of freshly cut baguette, and a dish of herbed mayo spread.

I can go either way with the spreads.  Bread over here is spine-tingling delicious.  The aroma wafts past the nostrils before you take a crunchy bite that ends with a smooth soft finish.  It’s the way bread is supposed to be, and today it don’t need no stinking spread.  My wife feels differently and of course, gentleman that I am, I simply snicker, without coming right out with a well justified criticism.  One secret of marital bliss is to avoid eye contact when you snicker.  Plausible denial.

We sit comfortably, sip, chew the bread, and watch pitiful shoppers brave the cold.  Then, our soup arrives and our thoughts channel to the heavenly aroma and exquisite taste.  Fish soup can be overpoweringly fishy, or so bland you wonder what you’re eating.  Flotter’s fish soup is neither.  It carries the breath of the sea, with an abundant taste that lets you know you’re eating fresh catch.  Just spicy enough, and with the surrounding vegetable broth, the flavors accomplish all you’d hoped they would.

The soup comes with crunchy croutons and a slightly spicy cream sauce.  Both add to the enjoyment!

We while away an hour or more, enjoying the wine, the atmosphere, and each other’s company, and chat about the things she wants to chat about.  Another secret to marital bliss.  Come on guys, put your mind in gear.  As long as you’ve got a nice wine in front of you, you can do it!  “Waitress, another over here, please!”




Thursday, October 11, 2012

Changes





I sat in my favorite coffee shop, sipping a Milch-Kaffee, nibbling a pumpkin-seed-encrusted croissant, and reading a mystery novel on my Kindle.

The shop is actually a thriving bakery, with only three tables for sipping and nibbling.  It was a nicely chilled autumn morning, so I’d walked, listening to a German lesson or two on my iPod.  See the logic there?  Walking, but using my time wisely to prep myself for German, which would be spoken shortly.  Wouldn’t it be nice if language lessons and reality matched up like that?

Takes me back to my high school French class and “La plume de ma tante est sur la table.”  In the decades since I committed that useful phrase to memory, I have never once been asked where my aunt’s pen is.  However, I was once asked in a French cheese shop if I spoke French.  I was immediately able to adjust the phrase to “La fromage de my tante est sur la table,” both impressing my friends and confusing the woman behind the counter, who didn’t know my aunt and couldn’t have cared less where she kept her cheese.

German lessons work the same way.  On this particular morning, unlike the thrilling voice on the iPod, I had not gotten off an airplane, nor taken a train, nor did I need to know where I could locate the American Embassy to schedule a haircut appointment for my aunt.  I was going to a bakery, where I would be devoid of useful words and phrases and subject to the distain shown a Neanderthal whose native language consisted of pointing and grunting, and causing innocent children to cling to their moms’ skirts.

Fortunately, coffee is pretty much the same word in any language and Milch is close enough to milk.  Croissant the same.  Spoken with a tone of desperation, it’ll get you what you want.  So, I sat down, sipped, put away the iPod and started on the Kindle.

As the coffee and croissant disappeared, I paused to look around me.   Nothing in particular.  The world in general.  Oh how the world has changed since I took French.

Right in front of me were an iPod, and a Kindle.  I was enjoying a cup of coffee from a magic coffee machine that hadn’t been invented, in a bakery shop that hadn’t existed.  On my wrist was a battery-powered watch.  I had a cell phone in my pocket.  I’d pay my bill in Euros, not Deutschmarks. If I wanted, I could drive to France with no one checking my passport, because there is no protected border, and even in France I’d still pay in Euros.

Not only that, but there had been no Super Bowl to look forward to and the NFL only had about half the number of teams.  On the sad side, there had been no Vietnam War, and JFK, MLK, and RFK were still kicking.

Heading to the slopes, I’d have found no snowboards, but I’d have seen skis longer than a grammar lesson. 

The world keeps on changing, and except for the events that eventually wind up in a history book, we barely notice.

Even so, some things remain the same.  I still enjoy coffee and croissants.  The sun still rises and sets, fall follows summer, and I still wear Levis.  Oh, yeah, my aunt’s pen is still right where she left it, right there on the table.



Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Chestnut Festival in the Ancient Village of Annweiler

Wine Country


The man has a thirst.

Looking for a date?

A village of canals





Yes, we went to another fest, this one celebrating chestnuts.  And yes, I’m a fan.  I like them roasted by an open fire, etc. Feel free to join in.   Also like them in cookies, cakes, and as I found out….beer.  Also, wurst.  Once you turn cooks, brewers, and eaters loose on an ingredient, there’s no stopping them.


But, you really don’t need an excuse to spend an hour or three in Annweiler, a medieval town of half-timbered houses, canals, water wheels, and interesting shops and restaurants.  When you step into this sleepy village, you can’t help saying:  This place is really cute!  I mean that in the truest sense.  Just like seeing a baby, or fragrant flower, Annweiler brings a smile and a happy sigh.

With waterpower at hand, this ancient spot developed as a tanning center and remained so for hundreds of years.  Annweiler weathered The Thirty Years War, The French Revolution, and a host of sieges.  They all took their toll in taxes and seizures, until the tanning industry finally left the town completely in 1903.  Commercial evidence remains.  There are the large water wheels on each end of town and an amazing village of stone homes, narrow, cobblestone streets, and lazy, meandering canals in between.  The only tanned goods you’ll see, however, are imported.

Must have been sad days to see family owned businesses, centuries old, wither and die.  What the last owners must have felt as generations of work and wealth slipped through their fingers, with only the sketches of history and memory remaining.

But, for Annweiler, spring has come again.  It’s a tourist center, although you’d never know it.  Through careful preservation and avoidance of modern trappings, the city fathers have carefully maintained the spirit of old Annweiler.  It’s a wonderful place to idle away an afternoon, explore the nooks, and soak in the atmosphere.

On a mountain over looking the town, Triels Castle stands proudly, as it has since the 11th Century.  It’s been restored and holds replicas of dynastic jewels from The Holy Roman Empire.

Hey, the festival wasn’t bad either!  Lots of different wursts, including many made from wild game.  Local cheeses, breads, and wines.  Plus the local brewery served a very tasty chestnut ale.  Would you expect anything less at a German festival?


Chestnut beer, locally brewed!


Sometimes when you're drinking beer with your buddies, you need a little privacy.

I think the woman in the lavender dress found one!

Monday, October 8, 2012

Autumn's Not Just For Kids - Pumpkin Soup





Here’s some trivia:

Is pumpkin a gourd?

Yes.

Is pumpkin a vegetable?

Yes

Is pumpkin a squash?

Starting to get the idea?

Pumpkin is also a harbinger of autumn, and the favorite of Halloween ghouls and goblins.   But, Halloween’s kid stuff.  Want to go trick-or-treating when you’re graying and short of breath?  Throw in fear of arrest and you'll know you need another way to celebrate.

Pumpkin season is eating-season and I’m not talking about pumpkin pie, usually made with canned this and overly sweetened that.  Let’s have some gourmet thoughts about this most popular of the gourd-squash family.  By the way, pumpkins aren’t always referred to as pumpkins, even in the English-speaking world (and that includes parts of California).  In Australia, they’re known as winter squash.

Pumpkins are also chock full of vitamins and minerals.

Biggest pumpkin producers in the world?  China, India, Russia, U.S. and Egypt.  (http://www.top5ofanything.com/)    In the U.S., which state produces the most?  Illinois.

But, let’s forget the trivia and bar bets for a moment and get back to eating.  As soon as you stop looking at pumpkins as big orange jack-o-lanterns and start wrapping your mind around pumpkins as delicious squash….you ready for this pseudo-psycho speak???…. your paradigm will shift and you’re on your way to some tongue-wagging goodness.

Pumpkin Soup

Serves 6

5 cups of cooked pumpkin (a five pound pumpkin ought to do it)
3 1/2 Cups vegetable or chicken broth
2 Cups heavy cream, plus a half cup more for whipping
1/2 medium onion, minced
2 Tablespoons butter
Pumpkin oil
Pumpkin seeds, toasted

1) Cut out the stem of the pumpkin, leaving a hole large enough to scrape out the seeds
2) Put the pumpkin in a 350ºF ª (180ºC) oven.  Bake for one hour.  Let cool.
3) Cut the cooked pumpkin into a few pieces. Scrape the pumpkin flesh off the shell and discard the shell
4) Put the butter in a pan and add the onion.  Careful to let the minced onion wilt, not brown 
5) Put broth, wilted onions, cream, and pumpkin flesh in a food processor and blend well.   If it’s too thick, add a little more broth
6) Put the soup in a sauce pan and cook on medium/low until it is well heated.  Do not boil.
7) Serve the soup in individual bowls.  Drizzle half a teaspoon of pumpkin oil into each bowl of soup and use a spoon to give it a swirl.
8) Top each serving with a dollop of whipped cream and some toasted pumpkin seeds

About toasting pumpkin seeds:  Put the seeds in a pan, without oil or butter.  Turn the heat to medium and watch the seeds like a hawk after a mouse!  The seeds will go from raw to toasted in a hurry.  Give 'em a stir. When you start to see them bulge and pop, give them another quick stir or two.  Most will get a little brown, some will not.  Careful not to let them blacken.

Sweetest soup you’ll ever eat, without even a speck of sugar added.  No salt either.  By the way, it’s also one of the BEST soups you’ll ever eat.  Just another reason, after football, snuggling under a blanket, leaves changing colors, and weinfests,  that I love autumn.

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Federweißer und Zwiebelkuchen





German mornings are chilled and raw these days.  Rain is not unknown.   Forests and open fields billow with fog, as if they’re on fire. 

Faded leaves have lost their verdant colors and those that fall, dance across the road like tiny, brown elves. High up on the hills, smudges of gold and red dot the horizon.  Yes, fall, winter’s stepchild, has taken away our splendid, carefree summer.

But, some remnants of fun remain.  After all, this is Germany, the land of seasonal celebrations and glorious libations.  Bierfests, of course, but also Weinfests, including the once a year appearance of Federweißer, or new wine.  Actually, it’s not quite wine yet, but its journey has begun.  Comes in red or white, capped with foil, but never corked because this new wine still bubbles with fermentation.

Ok, time for a quick German language lesson.  First thing to remember:  all German nouns are capitalized.   Number two:  that funny looking letter that looks as if someone got drunk in the middle of the word….ß…is pronounced like a double s.  So if I wanted to pander to my fellow Americans, I could write Federweißer as Federweisser.

Number three:  W is pronounced as a V.  V is pronounced as an F.  Wine is pronounced with a smile.

Number four:  If i comes before e in a word, then ignore the i and pronounce the e as a long e, but if the e comes before i, then ignore the e and pronounce i as a long i.  So, Federweißer is pronounced Fed-er-vice-er.

Got all that?  Grand!  You’re on your way to fluency and debauchery.

Fragrant and sweeter than apple juice, Federweißer (often also called Neuer Wein) signals the coming of autumn as surely as the leaves on the trees, and the sweater on your back.  Unlike other wines, Feder is cloudy and suits the taste buds best if it’s chilled.  Alcohol content is so low and the sugar content so high, you’ll manage a raging case of diabetes well before you get drunk.

This time of year, Federweißer is sold along the roadsides, in grocery stores, and at nearly every German style restaurant.  No home should be without a bottle or two and mine is no exception.

But Germans seldom just drink, unless it’s beer.  With Federweißer comes Ziebelkuchen (Zwebel-kook-en), an onion cake much like the famous quiche from across the nearby border.  Onion cake?  Really?  Yep and you may rest assured that with it’s salty custard flavor, sweetened only by the natural sweetness of onions, it’s a perfect accompaniment to your glass of Federweißer.

I don’t make Ziebelkuchen for the simple reason that an excellent bakery is only a few steps from my house.  For those unfortunates who don’t have a German bakery right down the street and won’t part with the money to fly to Germany for lunch, you can give onion cake a try in your own kitchen. http://www.food.com/recipe/german-zwiebelkuchen-onion-pie-305407

And, if you can’t find Federweißer sub a sweet Riesling.

Prost!