Showing posts with label Rockfish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rockfish. Show all posts

Friday, May 2, 2014

The Rockfish! Nothing Fishy About These Fish and Chips




The Rockfish.  A perfect place for fish and chips in the little, historic seaport town of Dartmouth.

It’s downtown, facing the Dart River, and about a stone’s throw away.  The blue front, with large white letters looks small, but opens up when you step through the door.  White and bright, like cresting waves on a blue sea.


The craving for fish and chips is second only to the deep and abiding need for beer and bouncing breasts.  I mean for some people, not you and me, of course.  To satisfy the need for F & C, we asked the locals.  Everyone pointed in the same direction.

We popped into The Rockfish.  Cheery place, with nautical décor.  Beer and wine line the walls, along with other, less interesting things.  The cod and chips were wonderful.  Crisp, flavorful.  And, the service was top of the line.





It’s one of those places you come to eat, but stay for another beer or two.  Comfortable and conversational. The waitresses glow with efficiency and charm.  I like it that the kitchen is open.  Being a curious cook myself, I wandered back and watched the process. 



What makes The Rockfish fish and chips different from anyone else’s?  Dip the fish in batter, fry ‘em!  If only it were that simple.  First, the fish must be FRESH.  The Rockfish’s motto is spot on!



Which begs the question:  How can you tell if the fish are fresh?  Your nose.  When you walk into a fish restaurant and smell a bit of brine, but nothing ‘fishy,’ you’ve come to the right spot.  If the smell blasts you like a right jab from Mike Tyson, turn around and quick-step out.

Next, the batter.  It should cover the fish and become one with the fish, but not replace the fish.  Sounds straight forward.  I like the batter as a thin, crispy addition, with a crunch that adds to the joy of biting into moist, white fish.  The Rockfish did not let me down.  Their fried fish is exactly as it should be. Crunchy on the outside, moist within. Tasty. Cheers!  Bravo! 

Next the chips, or fries, as we call them in the Colonies.  Not thin.  Not thick.  As crisp as the fish.  There’s a secret, which I’m certain you already know.  Chips must be fried twice.  The first dip into hot grease brings the moisture to the surface, the second frying adds the crispness. Quite nicely done, Rockfish!

Now, do you add some catsup?  Oh, lads and lassies, ye have immense gaps in your culinary knowledge.  Vinegar.  Adds a bit of bite.  Cuts the grease.  Permits your taste buds to relax and smile with joy and settles your stomach.



But, not just any kind of vinegar!  My favorite (and the English standard) is malt vinegar. Rockfish also gives you an unexpected choice of lemon vinegar.  Superb!

What is malt vinegar anyway?  Well, anything that ferments can be taken a little too far and you end up with vinegar, right?  You’re got red and white wine vinegars, apple vinegar, and dozens of others.  Malt vinegar is made by malting barley.  Ok, clever man, what-the-fruitcake is malting???  You take fresh barley grain, soak it in water, allow it to sprout, and dry it with hot air.  From there, you make ale and let time turn the ale to vinegar.

In England, at the fish and chips take-aways, they used to serve fish and chips wrapped in newspaper, the chips sticking up in stalks of golden splendor.  Millions of people ate their fish and chips with no ill effects.

Long past.  The government, like all governments, found a solution to a non-existent problem.  Bureaucrats with time on their hands and a steady flow of the silver coin decided that newspaper print is toxic.  Now-a-days paper used to wrap the fish at fish and chips stands is approved for use in a sterilized lab room for infectious diseases.  Ok, I added that last part.

There are also ‘fish labeling’ laws to contend with.  Restaurants can no longer simply state ‘fish and chips’ on the menu, but have to name the type of fish, cod, plaice, etc.  So far, the bureau-dolts have not required first names and birth certificates.

But, at The Rockfish, no worries.  No newspaper wrapping.  Order cod or plaice, or whatever (by name).   Sit back and sip a cool, local ale, or a nice glass of wine.  It’s going to take a bit of time.  Nothing they serve is pre-battered, or frozen, or pre-cooked.  It’s fish and chips as they should be.  Perfect! 

Finished eating? I think we have time for one more beer and perhaps some dessert.

Lemon Cheesecake!  Sweet and tart!  Super!!!


Write the name down:  Rockfish!





Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Dartmouth...Again!



I wrote of Dartmouth, England once before (http://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2013/09/dartmouth-pilgrims-castles-and-war.html), but there’s far more to say…and being loquacious, which, of course means dashingly handsome and charmingly conversant…I’m going to thrill you even more with things to do and places to see.

Dartmouth rests on the south coast of England and will forever be literally and historically connected to the adventures and perils of the sea.  Allow me to do some first class name dropping:  Second and Third Crusades. Henry Hudson. Drake.  Raleigh. The Pilgrim Fathers. Pirates. Privateers. Britannia Royal Naval College. D-Day.

I'll whet your appetite with a few more:

In 1853, Britannia Royal Naval College became the first formal schooling for Midshipmen. 

Looking down on the Castle, the church of St Petrox, and the River Dart


A castle guards the entrance to the Dart River and has since the 14th Century, although the Normans may have built fortifications after they won the Battle of Hastings in 1066. 

And, if you think Dartmouth’s history ends there, you’re wrong.  The American Army took over the Britannia Royal Naval College and did much of the planning for the D-Day Invasion there.  At one time nearly 500 American ships and landing craft sat anchored in Dartmouth Harbor.

Agatha Christie's home and flowing garden, Greenway, is nearby.  Take a ferry across the bay and a steam train to get there.

History permeates the air, but always the traveler’s eyes are almost hypnotically drawn to the magnificent bay, dotted with boats, ships, and ferries.  Dartmouth is still a working fishing village. The fish are fresh, and plentiful.  Youngsters kneel along the stone embankment, dropping their lines and laughingly pull out crab after crab.



The natives are friendly.  We stopped and asked some kids to see their catch.  Got an earful. Asked questions of neighboring tables in the restaurants and pubs.  Found out even more.

Speaking of restaurants, feel like fish and chips?  One of the best in all of England is Rockfish, only a short stroll to the riverfront.   Need a beer or six?  Historic pubs abound, the earliest dating from 1380.  Check The Cherub.



Then, there’s the Dartmouth Museum, where the town entertained Charles II in 1671, in what is now known as the King’s Room.



What about the town itself, the ins and outs, the streets and backways?  Cobblestone lanes, and narrow alleys, most dating from Elizabethan and even medieval times, tangle though this picturesque ville.


One of the many shopping streets...early morning.

Another cheery pub!


The Royal Castle Hotel dates from 1639 and where it sits marked the water’s edge prior to the 19th Century land reclamation.  Grab a pint in The Galleon Bar. 

On the Waterfront!


The waterfront now makes for a splendid walk that leads you down to Bayard’s Cove, the only cove at the time and the spot where the Speedwell and Mayflower anchored for repairs.  In short, Dartmouth stepped right out of your dreams about what England should look like.

Bayard's Cove


Rather than give away all of Dartmouth’s secrets in one gulp, in the weeks to come, I’ll blog more about a whole host of reasons why this very special (and semi-isolated) part of England should be a star on your trip-list.

How in the world do you get there?  I can tell you how we did it.  Airplane.  Underground. Train. Bus.  Sounds more difficult than it is.  First stop is a London airport.  Ours was Heathrow.  Next a short ride on the London tube to Paddington station.  Next a 3 ½ hour British Rail ride to Totnes, followed by a 45 minute bus trip to Dartmouth.

You have to hand it to the British.  Transportation connections are wonderful and very comfortable.  After all, Dartmouth is a tourist destination.  The first time we came was on a cruise ship.  It was summer and the streets bulged with visitors from the far corners. April was much more gentle.  Never did we suffer through long lines or the inconvenience of packed restaurants, and the weather was cool, but sunny.



In fact, our four days overflowed with dreamy strolls, interesting visits, chats with locals, and deep breaths of sea air.  Well, of course, there was also the occasional pub…but then what is England without a pub or two and what better place to down a pint than Dartmouth?



Before you go, visit the Dartmouth Information Center site.  Many of the tours are only one or two days a week.  These folks are extremely helpful with scheduling visits and tours.  http://www.discoverdartmouth.com.  For a real treat, have them set you up for a walking tour, hosted by John Putt, known by the locals as Putty.  It takes about an hour and a half and you won't want to miss a second!

Coming up:  I'll show you the best places to eat and drink and stay and visit in Dartmouth!!!




Dartmouth by night